Memories of Kumano Kodo Trails (Originally posted on 2022-Aug-23)

Since the beginning of June, news media said that Japanese government considered subsidy program to expand domestic travel. I thought it was a good economic stimulation program, but for me, it could be obstacle for my weekend trips as all airplanes, trains, hotels would likely be clouded. I had decided to make a last-minute twist to find destinations before the subsidy program began.

Since I had set my plan in June, the rainy season would be the biggest concern. While Okinawa would be out of the rainy season by late June, Hokkaido also seemed to be nice choice as no rainy season there.

I was tempted to visit Rebun Island one more time, but last year’s stay was nearly perfect. I did not think I would be able to surpass that, so I decided to pass. It might be a little early for lavender season, but I would like to visit Biei and Furano for typical Hokkaido farming scenery. The gateway is Asahikawa Airport, and there were some seats available on frequent flyer award ticket for round trip.

However, Hokkaido is said to have something called Ezo rainy season. Although I had been watching the weather forecast every day, there was no chance of sunshine in the forecast during the period I planned to visit. I was not sure if it would be a good idea to go to Hokkaido farmlands while it could be rained all the time. At a late night before few days prior to the departure, I decided to cancel the trip.

It was in the middle of rainy season south of Honshu. I had taken a day off from work, but it might be a good idea to work on that day if there were rains everywhere in Japan.

No way. I was not a such kind of guy, so I did my best to find a place where would not be rain. As expected in the last minute, airline tickets to Okinawa were expensive, and the hotels on Taketomi Island, where I had wanted to visit, were fully booked. The only other destinations that looked promising weather were the Izu Islands and the Kii Peninsula.

All Nippon Airways (ANA) had a flight from Tokyo Haneda to Hachijojima of Ize Island, and there were seats available for the award tickets. I was somewhat tempted to go to Hachijojima, but the accommodations where looked good were already fully booked. I had to give up the idea.

Last year, I visited Koyasan (Mt. Koya), which was my only stay in Wakayama Prefecture. It would be nice to know Wakayama more. I decided to visit the Kumano Kodo Trails on the Kii Peninsula, which also had been in my mind for some time. I decided to fly to Nanki-Shirahama Airport by Japan Airlines in the morning of the first day. Then I would take trains on the return trip, which would be easily rescheduled depending on the weather.

I was curious about the Kumano area because I often went to a yakitori restaurant who offered chicken produced in Kumano area called Kumano Jidori. At the same time, I knew nothing more about Kumano other than the chicken. I hurriedly researched Kumano almost all night.

When I arrived at Tokyo Haneda Airport early in the morning, announcements were made that flights to Hokkaido could be interrupted due to bad weather. While thinking that I might make a right choice, TV news forecasted clear skies for Asahikawa area on the next day and the day after. It was too huge gaps between the airport announcement and TV forecast. Will the weather in Hokkaido improve dramatically from now on? The possibility of making wrong choice flashed through my mind.

When I arrived at Nanki-Shirahama Airport, it was a full-blown overcast day, even more clouds than Tokyo. Until yesterday, weather forecast had said clear skies expected. I might have made the wrong choice. The phrase, “too much scheming could lead to his downfall,” came to my mind.

From the airport, I took a bus to Kumano Hongu Shrine. This was a direct bus service, but the Kii Peninsula was much larger than I imagined and it took a long time to get there. I fell asleep on the way there, and when I woke up it was raining heavily. The weather in the Kii Peninsula seemed to be deteriorating dramatically. I must have made a wrong choice.

In the end, by the time I arrived at Kumano Hongu Shrine, the rain had stopped, but the atmospheric conditions were unstable, periodical sunny and rain going by. Nevertheless, I started walking along the Kumano Kodo Trails.

I then realized that I had recently visited the Kunisaki Peninsula and Hagurosan Shrine in Dewa, and two places had temples and shrines deep in the mountains. In fact, there were not much of differences in photographically besides they were cloudy in two places. Once again, the phrase “too much scheming could lead to his downfall” came to mind.

Nevertheless, I visited two Kumano Kodo Trails on two days. The weather was cloudy or light rain. They were all flat gray in photos. I must have made a wrong choice.

In the evening of the second day, the sun finally appeared. My heart also cleared somewhat.

Day 3 was originally forecast to be cloudy, so I decided to take an early train back to Tokyo. Still, I did not collect the tickets that I had reserved though website, hoping for a last-minute sunshine.

Early in the morning of the last day, I was awakened by a tremendous roar of thunder. It was raining utterly hard. I decided to leave Kumano as planned.

On the way back from Kumano, I took the JR limited express Namki to Nagoya, which took about 4 hours, and then transferred to the Shinkansen. After returning home in a daze feeling, I checked the weather in Asahikawa and found that it had rained heavily on the first day, then clear skies on the second and third days. I had completely made the wrong choice.

I learned that the schemer surely had fallen for his scheming.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Kamikawa Area in Hokkaido (Originally posted on 2022-Oct-31)

Times and services listed are the timetables at the time of the visit.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 0745 (Japan Airlines JAL551) >> Asahikawa 0925

Farm Tomita in Furano

Biei
Seven Star Tree 
Ken and Mary Tree
Blue Pond
Shirohige Waterfall

Overnight stay: Morino Ryotei Biei

Tips for Day 1
– I was not familiar with this area at all. I had imagined a wilderness-like landscape in Biei, but I was surprised to find that it was a quite sightseeing area. This is not something strange considering nearby Asahikawa is the second largest city in Hokkaido and about three hours drive from Sapporo. Indeed, Bien was a rather artificial landscapes since there were many farms in the area. They had a long history of tough cultivation. It was a good opportunity to think how these wastelands have been developed for farming.

Day 2

Asahiyama Zoo

Overnight stay: Spa & Hotel Resort Furano La Terre

Day 3

Mt. Asahidake Ropeway

Hagoromo Falls

Mt. Tokachidake Observation Park

Shin-ei Hill Observation Park

Asahikawa 2015 (Japan Airlines JAL558) >> Tokyo Haneda 2200

Tips for Day 3
– Beautiful sunset view at Shin-ei Hill Observation Park. If you stay in a typical onsen inns, it might be hard to visit sunset view as dinner time is somewhat fixed.

Memories of Biei (Originally posted on 2022-Oct-18)

Recent trip to Kumano left me somewhat dissatisfied. It was because I gave up my plan to visit Biei and Furano because I had relied on weather forecast too much. However, I could not just give up for travels although I tennded doing so for anything else.

By the summer, COVID-19 outbreak was worsen again. Because of wide spread of the outbreak, people were canceling their summer trips. Indeed, I was infected the COVID-19 and had to cancel my trip in early August. This brought back bitter memories of Kumano. I might be able to find someone’s cancellation slot.

Checking availabilities of the hotels in Biei and Furano, where I gave up last time. After checking hotel vacancies almost every day, I finally found availabilities on the days I wanted.

The gateway to Biei and Furano area was Asahikawa, there was a frequent flyer free seat available on the outbound flight from Tokyo Haneda to Asahikawa even though it was last minute in summer. On the return trip, there was a seat available on the last flight from Sapporo Shin-Chitose to Tokyo Haneda on award ticket. Asahikawa to Shin-Chitose Airport was three-hour train ride but should not be a bad plan considering air tickets were free in August weekend, peak season of Hokkaido. Moreover, three days before departure, frequent flyer award ticket became available on the last direct flight from Asahikawa to Tokyo Haneda, so I was able to rebook it.

It seemed almost a miracle. As same as Rebun Island visit in the past, the gods of Hokkaido must have told me to come.

A lesson from the Kumano trip was that “too much scheming will be the schemer’s downfall.” I thought not to be too concerned on the weekly weather forecast, and not to waste my time re-planning the trip because of it. I should enjoy the weather as it is.

Despite my own thoughts, I became curious about the weather forecast a few days before my departure. I cannot behave as I should have learned.

The forecast for the day of arrival was sunny or cloudy, and it would rain on the second day, then the last day would be sunny again. It looked like it would be sunny at least one whole day during my stay in Biei, where would give me a typical farmland scenery of Hokkaido. I flew out of Tokyo on a sunny day with a rather relaxed mind.

When I arrived at Asahikawa Airport, it was unfortunately cloudy. Although the lavender flower season was over, I first headed to Furano to see the flower fields. The forecast said clear skies expected in the afternoon, so I decided to postpone visiting my main destination, Biei, until later of the day.

As expected, it cleared up as time passed. I drove around Biei by rental car. I was able to visit all the places I wished to see in a half day. When I drove around, I found that both Biei and Furano were far more crowded than I had imagined. Since I was already satisfied with Biei on the first day, I decided to look for other places after the second day.

The next day was cloudy with light rain. I gave up on landscape photography and decided to visit Asahiyama Zoo. As expected on a summer weekend, the zoo was crowded, but seemingly not as bad as typical Sunday during the non-COVID time.

On the third day, the weather cleared up as predicted. First, I took the ropeway to Mt. Asahidake. After that, I returned to Biei again and headed for a sunset spot called Shin-ei Hill Observation Park.

I had read somewhere that the sunset view of Shin-ei Hill is the best sunset view in Japan although I knew many places claimed so. The condition was rather tough for photography due to higher position of the sun by surrounding mountains. It caused bright sunlight coming into the lenses, but I was able to capture a beautiful moment. This may not be “the best” sunset place in Japan, but it is certainly a wonderful view. If I had to fly back to Tokyo via Sapporo Shin-Chitose Airport, I would have to miss this place due to time constraint.

In this summer, northern Japan experienced heavy rains, and the weather in Hokkaido seemed to be unstable. Nevertheless, I was able to make an efficient visit and enjoy the beautiful scenery of Hokkaido.

When I messed up my visit to Kumano, I thought that too much scheming would be the schemer’s downfall. Despite the old saying, I always wonder if a real schemer could somehow sticking where he was.

Yet I am a man of small caliber, so I would never be able to act like a ninja. Therefore, I could not help myself into downfall. I must rely on external power to save me.

In the end, I am sure that the gods of Hokkaido gave me a second chance.