Memories of Guanajuato

When I lived in Los Angeles, I was often mistaken for a Mexican by Mexicans. I have considered Mexico as my second home country since then. In this Japan’s Golden Week holidays, I planned to return the home for the first time after the COVID-19.

This blog always consists of my frustration for the weather at travel destinations, but it is not the case this time. It was the dry season in a country where cacti thrive, there was nothing to worry about. After all, it was sunny every day.

Even though I call Mexico as my second home country, it is only because there are similarities in appearance. I do not have an understanding of Mexican culture. I gave up on learning Spanish within a short period of time, so there is the language barrier as well. Besides, I cannot avoid safety issues in Mexico. Indeed, they are what I should worry about rather than weather. Since it had been a while since my last visit to Mexico, I decided to choose a safe tourist destination. It was an old city called Guanajuato, where I have visited before.

I used to fly to Mexico using All Nippon Airways’ red-eye flights on its Tokyo-Los Angeles service, but I was not able to find good connecting flights at Los Angeles in this year. I had no choice but to pick flights that depart and arrive Tokyo during the daytime. Japan Airlines (JAL) has launched its latest A350-1000 to Dallas, so I decided to transfer American Airlines flights at Dallas. Airfare was high due to the Golden Week holidays, but I was able to adjust schedule to avoid peak dates.

Guanajuato was still a beautiful city. The old town was as if it were studded with jewels. As long as I took reasonable precautions, there were few safety concerns. I was able to enjoy leisurely stroll through the back alleys.

I was enjoying safe stay in the beautiful city, but challenges arose on the third day.

Tequila is often thought to be a product of Jalisco State, but there is a distillery in Guanajuato State which officially call its product as tequila. I wished to visit the tequila distillery, I asked the hotel if they could arrange a taxi for me. It was a little more expensive than Uber, but since it was not a place where I could easily find a return car, I requested to arrange the taxi for a round-trip. However, upon arriving at the distillery, it turned out there was a waiting fee incurred. The waiting time alone was equivalent to the one-way trip, so it ended up a significant expense.

I pulled myself together and went out for dinner. My hotel was located on a hill overlooking the old town of Guanajuato. The cable car that going up the hill had already suspended its operation after the dinner. I had heard it ran until 9:30 pm, but apparently it closed early on Sundays. I had to return to the city center and call an Uber back to the hotel. It was a day filled with unexpected transportation issues.

However, it was not over yet.

While I was dozing off, thinking about taking a shower, I received an email from JAL. Due to severe weather in Dallas area, my flight back to Japan would be delayed by 10.5 hours, arriving at Tokyo Haneda Airport around 1 am. It was already late at night, and there was little I could do at that hour. I lost the energy to take a shower and went to sleep.

Sleeping would not solve anything. In the next morning, I called JAL in US while I was still half asleep. Originally, I had booked a flight departing Guanajuato-León Airport around 5 am. The layover at Dallas would exceed 12 hours, which was simply too harsh. There was an American Airlines’ Dallas flight departing Guanajuato-León at 3:50 pm, which would connect to the JAL flight in about 2.5 hours, so I requested a change.

It was obvious if I thought of it calmly, but later, I received an email from American Airlines stating that free flight change was accepted due to possible delay to/from Dallas. I had finally made research what would be happening in Dallas, I found that there were severe thunderstorm and flood warnings issued in the area.

American Airlines allows to track status of previous flight of the aircraft to be used. Aircraft of the 3:50 pm flight would make a round trip of US domestic flights from Dallas before she would fly to Mexico. Three takeoffs and landings at Dallas Airport in bad weather would have high risks of delay. One flight before the 3:50 pm flight was scheduled to depart Guanajuato Airport at 10:45 am. While this flight would make connection time of about 7.5 hours on schedule, the plane would fly a one-way flight from Washington D.C. to Dallas before heading to Mexico. Therefore, the risk of delay could be lower and there would be ample time for the connection in case of delay.

After considering them for a while, I contacted JAL in Tokyo late at night. It took time, but being able to communicate them via a messaging app was helpful in terms of phone costs. I managed to secure the last seat on the 10:45 am flight and everything was finally settled at 2:00 am.

I took a short sleep and went out to see the last sunrise in Guanajuato. If I had taken the original 5:00 am flight, I would not have been able to see this view. Luckily, I was able to enjoy the most beautiful sunrise during my stay.

I took an Uber to Guanajuato-León Airport and checked-in for American Airlines. In the end, I arrived at Dallas Airport about 2 hours late. The 3:50 pm flight was also significantly delayed. Since I needed to go through US immigration at Dallas even for an international connection, I would have missed JAL flight if I kept the 3:50 pm flight.

Yet, it still meant 5.5 hours of wait in Dallas. Since I was able to clear the immigration fairly smoothly, I thought I might have time to go to Dallas or nearby Fort Worth. I would go to Fort Worth if sunny, but considering the thunderstorm with a flood warning, which was severe enough to delay many flights, I decided to stay inside the airport. Since it had been some 30 years since I last visited Texas, I thought about going to a Texan barbecue restaurant. It was unfortunate that the airport prices, inflation, and the weak Japanese Yen were a triple-whammy, I gave up the idea. To enjoy an American taste slightly, I made bourbon whiskey highball at the American Airlines lounge and killed time reading my company’s email while watching the planes.

The JAL flight was delayed as planned, arrived at Haneda Airport around 1 am, which was, in a way, on time. I took a taxi from Haneda Airport back to Yokohama. JAL made compensation up to JPY10,000, and the remaining amount I had to pay was not much different from the cost of returning home normally. Additionally, I received JPY24,000 as a “consolation payment” from my travel insurance. I had already handled work emails during the waiting time at Dallas Airport, and I had set to work from home on the day I returned, so there was no loss in any way. I even got to see the sunrise that I was supposedly not to see, so I should consider as pennies (or consolation payment) from heaven.

I tend to think “a glass of half empty of water” but I felt like “a glass of half full of water” at the end of this trip. So much so, Mexico is truly my second home country.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Sichuan Province

Times listed are based on the schedule at the time of visit.

Day 1

Chengdu East 0645 (China Railway C5782) > Huanglong-Jiuzhaigou 0824
Huanglong-Jiuzhaigou Station 0900 (shared van) > Jiuzhaigou 1100

・ Jiuzhaigou

Accommodation: Steigenberger Jiuzhaigou Valley

Day 1 Tips
• I booked China Railway train tickets through Trip.com, securing reserved seat tickets were challenging. Even Chengdu-Chongqing route connecting two major cities of Sichuan Province, which I traveled for work-related reasons, it was extremely difficult to book a desired train. Yet, the trains were sometimes empty when I boarded.
• It seemed that Jiuzhaigou entrance tickets could not be booked on Trip.com, I asked a friend who had a Chinese bank account to book them for me.
・Both the train and the tourist attraction entrance tickets are real-name system, passport information is required for reservation. It is also needed to have passport for entrance.
• I also booked the transfer from Huanglong-Jiuzhaigou Station to Jiuzhaigou on Trip.com. I chose a minivan that offered hotel drop-off. I thought it had been all set, however, I became nervous because I could not find the driver at the meeting point stated on the reservation confirmation. I used photos and WeChat automatic translation for the driver to find me instead. It was an analog experience in digital ways.
• The entrance to Jiuzhaigou is IT-enabled and “civilized” as Chinese government may say, but the bus stop was a dog-eat-dog world of olden China.

Day 2

・Jiuzhaigou

Day 3

Jiuzhaigou (shared van) > Huanglong

・ Huanglong

Huanglong (shared van) > Huanglong-Jiuzhaigou Station
Huanglong-Jiuzhaigou 1812 (China Railway C5798) > Chengdu East 2039

Day 3 Tips
• I had initially booked a later train in case of delays during the journey to the station, but it turned out I could easily make two trains earlier. Upon checking on Trip.com, I found there was one seat available in first class, so I changed my reservation. Even if I had to pay the cancellation fee, it was crucial not to give up the train ticket until the very last minute.

Memories of Chichibu (Originally posted on 2021-Nov-01)

Few years ago, I had a plan to visit Chichibu with a friend of mine, but for some reasons, it never materialized. Although there are streams where you can go rafting in Chichibu, they are on the Arakawa River, and even it is said that Chichibu has rural scenery, it is in Saitama Prefecture just next to Tokyo. I was not very interested.

Due to travel restrictions owing the COVID-19, I visited Hakone in Kanagawa Prefecture this year. The downside of the trip was that I saw regular commuter trains of JR Tokaido Line at Odawara Station, just 15 minutes from Hakone Yumoto Station, on the way back. It immediately brought me back to reality (tentatively named as Tragedy of Odawara), but I was quite satisfied overall. I was also able to photograph the old-fashioned mountain railway train.

If I can be satisfied in Kanagawa Prefecture where is located next to Tokyo on its west side, I also should be able to be satisfied in Saitama Prefecture where is located next to Tokyo on its north side. Compared to Hakone, where I only saw the mountain railway, Chichibu might be more enjoyable with its river rafting and steam locomotive (SL) train. Since Chichibu would be crowded during summer vacation, I made a reservation of an onsen inn just before it, hoping that the rainy season would be over by then.

As expected, the rainy season ended before the trip. It was summer.

First, I took the Tokaido Line commuter train from Yokohama Station to Kumagaya Station. At Kumagaya, I transferred to the SL train and headed to its final stop, Mitsumine-guchi. At Mitsumine-guchi Station, there is a park where you can observe the maintenance of the SL. The weather was clear, perfect for photography.

However, it was hot. Indeed, it was extremely hot. The sunlight was also strong, rather it was harsh.

When it comes to places with extreme heat in the Kanto region, Kumagaya is on par with Tatebayashi and Maebashi. While the elevation becomes slightly higher moving toward from Kumagaya to Chichibu, it is still not in the mountains. Rather, it should be considered the edge of Kanto Plain, so it remains quite hot. Upon checking later day, the highest temperature in Chichibu during my stay was 34°C. This was nearly the same as the 35°C recorded in Kumagaya on that day.

The next day was also sunny, and I went to river rafting in Nagatoro. It was still sweltering hot, but there was a cool breeze on the river surface. However, the boat ride only lasted about 15 minutes. The rest of the day had to be spent under the blazing sun of Kanto Plain.

It might be cooler in the mountains. It was a bit far, but I decided to take a bus to Mitsumine Shrine. At an altitude of about 1,100 meters, it was slightly cooler and occasional breeze blew.

Yet, Chichibu was Chichibu. Walking around the Shrine made me sweat profusely. Besides, waiting for the return bus in the parking lot under the intense sunlight was unbearably hot. The bus had ventilation measures in place due to the COVID-19, the air conditioning did not work well. It was also fairly crowded.

One of the purposes of my trip was photography, so I had no right to complain about the sunny weather. If the weather was bad in Chichibu, I might have just gone home without seeing anything.

Having said, it was extremely hot. It was just after the rainy season ended, so my body was not used to the intense heat. Even though Chichibu is said to have rural landscapes, it is a part of the developed Kanto Plain, so there are not many places with tree shades.

During this trip, I was able to drink beer at restaurants in Chichibu. Once that happened, I had no choice but to keep drinking ice-cold beer from early in the afternoon. In elementary school days, I was told that I should not drink too many cold soft drinks during summer vacation. On the other hand, I can drink alcohol freely now. I was glad that I was an old man.

I spent two days in Chichibu and returned home. To avoid the Tragedy of Odawara, I took Seibu Line Limited Express via Ikebukuro on the way back. This way, I did not have to take the JR regular commuter train all the way back to Tokyo, and I could enjoy the afterglow of the trip for longer time.

I did not walk around that much, but when I got home, I was exhausted from the extreme heat. Besides, maybe because I drank too much beer, I felt sick with my stomach.

While I was feeling weak, I recalled that I had booked the onsen inn in late April. It was the season of fresh greenery and a gentle breeze. I had just escaped from cold winter and was filled with optimistic hope. At the time, I could not have imagined that summer in Chichibu would be so harsh.

This is Tragedy of Chichibu.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Chichibu

Day 1

Yokohama (Tokaido Line/Takasaki Line) >> Kumagaya
Kumagaya (SL Paleo Express) >> Mitsumine-guchi

・SL Turntable

Mitsumine-guchi (Chichibu Railway) >> Chichibu

Accommodation: Araki Kousen

Day 1 Tips
・The turntable at Mitsumine-guchi operates around 1:30-1:40 p.m. Until then, I was able to watch the maintenance work.

Day 2

Chichibu (Chichibu Railway) >> Nagatoro

• River rafting

Nagatoro (Chichibu Railway) >> Ohanabatake
Seibu Chichibu Station (Bus) >> Mitsumine Shrine

Mitsumine Shrine

Mitsumine Shrine (Bus) >> Seibu Chichibu Station
Seibu Chichibu (Chichibu Limited Express) >> Seibu Ikebukuro
Ikebukuro (Shonan-Shinjuku Line/Tokaido Line) >> Yokohama

Day 2 Tips
• Took a bus to Mitsumine Shrine. The ride is long, so it can be tough if you cannot get a seat. Better to arrive early to wait for the bus, but the driver will not let you on until about five minutes before departure at the first stop.