COLO’s Traveler Guide: Tateyama (Originally posted on 2023-Dec-31)

Times listed are the timetables at the time of the visit.

Day 1

Tokyo 0616 (Shinkansen Kagayaki 501) >> Toyama 0823

Tateyama Alpine Route

Dentetsu Toyama 0853 >> Tateyama 0948
Tateyama 1000 >> Bijyodaira 1007
Bijyodaira 1020 >> Murodo 1110

Overnight stay: Hotel Tateyama

Tips for Day 1
– I stayed two nights in Murodo. For most of the people traveling Tateyama Alpine Route, Murodo is a place to stay for a few hours max. This time, I had clear skies from the evening of the second day till the morning of the last day, so it made sense to stay two nights. Murodo is full of tourists in the daytime, but it is a quiet place in the mornings and evenings. I have a feeling that one night would have been enough if only the weather had been better though.

Day 3

– Tateyama Alpine Route

Murodo 0800 >> Midagahara 0815
– Trekking at Midagahara
Midagahara 1055 >> Bijyodaira 1130
Bijyodaira 1140 >> Tateyama 1147
Tateyama 1200 >> Dentetsu Toyama 1304

Dinner: Sushi Ei Hanayagi

Toyama 1940 (Shinkansen Kagayaki 516) >> Omiya 2131
Omiya >> Yokohama

Tips for Day 3
– Sushi Ei Hanayagi is my favorite restaurant in Toyama. My favorite sake “Kachiuma” was on the menu. I drank 4 cups. Thanks to this, the Shinkansen train back to Omiya took only a few minutes from Toyama.
– I bought some “pressed sushi” at Junpu-ya in Toyama Station. I could take it home at room temperature.

Memories of Murodo (Originally posted on 2023-Dec-18)

This summer was unusually hot probably due to El Nino. When I was a child, it was on news when maximum temperature exceeded 30 degrees Celsius in Tokyo, but it is not unusual even the temperature exceeds 35 degrees Celsius in these days.

Despite such climate, it is probably not a good idea to go up north for a summer vacation. I heard that it was hot even in Hokkaido Island this year. Maybe I could be in cold weather in North Pole. Alternatively, it would probably be able to find a cooler place in Siberia, but the current situation in Russia makes it difficult. I need to find somewhere realistic.

On the other hand, I have heard that it was cool at climbing entrance of Mt. Fuji even in this summer. Of course, this is not in the Arctic or Siberia, but in just outside of the Kanto area, Shizuoka and Yamanashi Prefectures. There are cooler places in Japan if you look for them. It is likely cooler going up in three-dimensionally rather than going northward in two-dimensionally.

In the meantime, I happened to get a reservation at a hotel in Murodo on the Tateyama Alpine Route. The altitude is around 2,450 meters, which is about as same as the climbing entrance of Mt. Fuji, so it should be cool weather in Murodo.

During the peak season, the hotel in Murodo is difficult to book and the schedule cannot be changed at last minute. Even if the weather is not good, you cannot go wrong if you think it as a summer getaway.

On departure day, it was the time when a typhoon was approaching Kanto area. I booked the first Hokuriku Shinkansen train so that I could leave before the typhoon reached, but it was not a clear day even if I went across mountains further to Sea of Japan side of the country. It was good that it did not heavily rain though.

Murodo was cold due to the strong wind blowing from the Nagano Prefecture. I walked around in the light rain until check-in time. After that, I snuggled under a blanket in my room. Not enough from a photographic point of view, but it was supposed to be perfect as a heat retreat.

As a photographer and blogger, I got up before sunrise in the next morning. However, Mt. Tateyama was in the clouds. The night before, I had three glasses of whiskey at the hotel bar, and I had hungover, perhaps because the high altitude affects the circulation of alcohol in my system. Waking up early does not do any good to me. I immediately returned to bed.

I woke up again before the noon. It was still cloudy, but there was no point in staying in my room. I went for a walk.

As it is said “every dog has its day,” I was able to see a family of rock ptarmigan. This alone was worth the trip. Moreover, the weather started to improve in the afternoon. The next morning looked promising. Since I am not a dog, I went to bed without going to the bar to ensure I could wake up early in the next morning.

Indeed, it was clear and sunny. I took my camera and walked to the place I had spotted the day before. I was able to enjoy quite a nice sunrise.

Having enjoyed Murodo, I decided to go down the mountain early. On the way down, I got off the bus at Midagahara for trekking. I then returned to Toyama Station in the early afternoon.

The altitude of Toyama Station is about 7 meters above sea level. With altitude differences of 2,440 meters, the temperature should have been around 14.5 degrees Celsius higher, and it was actually 32 degrees Celsius in Toyama City.

As expected, it was not much different from the heat of Tokyo although I went up north. I walked around in Toyama City in the extreme heat until time for evening sushi restaurant reservation.

I learned that the key to avoiding the heat was the altitude. However, I spoiled my body by escaping from the heat, and I began to suffer from summer fatigue from the day after I returned home. It seemed that effects from extreme heat I had endured in all summer came at once, and the malaise continued for more than a month, until mid-October.

I am unaccustomed to extreme heat and I am unaccustomed to heat retreat. It is difficult for a middle-aged man to live comfortably in summer.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Central Hokkaido (Originally posted on 2024-Mar-17)

Times listed are the timetables at the time of the visit.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 0900 (Japan Airlines JAL507) >> Sapporo New Chitose 1030
New Chitose Airport 1106 (Rapid Express Airport 111) >> Otaru 1222

Lunch: LeTAO

Otaru Canal

Dinner: Ise Sushi

Bars: Nikka Bar Rita, Bar HATTA, BOTA

Overnight stay: Hotel Nord

Tips for the 1st day
– We went to the Rita Bar before sushi restaurant, and started with Nikka whisky with water. Although I usually prefer single malt, Super Nikka is surprisingly tasty with water or highball. After the dinner, tried few glasses of old Nikka single malt whiskies at Bar HATTA and BOTA.

Day 2

Otaru Station 0900 (local bus) >> Yoichi Station 0935

Nikka Yoichi Distillery

Yoichi 1231 (JR Train) >> Otaru 1255
Otaru 1319 (JR Train) >> Naebo 1409

Sapporo Beer Garden

Dinner: Shikisai

Sapporo 1924 (Express Airport 194) >> New Chitose Airport 2003
Sapporo New Chitose 2105 (Japan Airlines JAL 528) >> Tokyo Haneda 2245

Tips for Dat 2
– You can take both train and bus between Otaru and Yoichi depending on schedule availability, bus stops are in front of stations. The distillery is a walking distance from Yoichi Station.
– We took the Sapporo City Tram and went to “Shikisai”, which we had heard about from a person living in Sapporo. It is a popular izakaya (Japanese style pub) among locals. It is interesting because there are many local fish that we have never heard of.