Memories of Hakodate (Originally posted on 2024-Jul-01)

I have not been feeling well since the end of last year. At first I thought that I had entered a “bad luck cycle” that is common in my life, but things did not improve and my physical condition was not good either. The cause of all the problems seemed to be insomnia, according to my acupuncturist, which was highly likely owing to my high heart rate even while I am at rest. The results of medical checkup showed that there was no problem with the heart itself, so it must be an autonomic nervous system problem. I decided to purchase an Apple Watch and monitor my health status.

After a 4-day trip to Taiwan in February, the situation was improved. My heart rate dropped and my insomnia somewhat eased. However, the golden time was over after three weeks. Hay fever triggered another bad cycle, things were even worsening due to natural factors such as typhoon-class low air pressers coming almost every week and harsh temperature fluctuations in this spring. The insomnia worsened as my physical condition was weaken.

My acupuncturist and I share the same view that fundamental solution to my autonomic nervous system problem is quitting my job, but that simple solution will likely to lead other problems. It seems to me that an effective strategy getting better would be to go on a trip.

It was around the end of March, but I did not think I can wait until Japan’s Golden Week holidays in May. I decided to go to Hotel Keifu on the outskirts of Hakodate, which I had planned to visit in late fall. I have decided to make the trip advance. Since the purpose of this trip was self-therapy, one-night trip would be too short. After some research, I found out another hotel named Hotel Hakodate Hirome-so, also on the outskirts of Hakodate. I also found that When I stayed two-nights in a row, they would provide a shuttle service between accommodations. Since there is a favorite high-end sushi restaurant in Hakodate where I may visit at the end of the trip and I have heard that no hay fever in Hokkaido, it would be a perfect escape from reality.

Even though I omitted spring break period, there were no seats available on frequent flyer award ticket for the flight leaving Tokyo on Saturday morning. In fact, the plane itself was nearly full. Rather than having a seat in the middle of three-rows of seats at a fare close to the full amount, I decided to take the Hokkaido Shinkansen even if the ride took four and a half hours. For about the same fare, I could ride in the green car (upper class). Since I would be sleepless at night, it would be good to get a sleep while on the Shinkensen.

I bought a beer at Tokyo Station for a morning nightcap (or whatever called in English), but before I could finish it, I lost consciousness around Ueno Station, and when I opened my eyes a few seconds later, I was already in Aomori. I didn’t even notice Sendai or Morioka Stations on the way. By drinking a stale, room-temperature liquid, I passed through the Seikan Tunnel with my consciousness often losing, then arrived Hokkaido Island. With this much sleep while moving on the Shinkansen, the green car ticket would have paid for itself.

When I arrived in Hakodate, the weather was clear and the temperature was hot. It was so hot that it seemed a different city where I had been freezing in a snowstorm a few months back.

I took a streetcar from Hakodate Station to Jujigai. After a lunch at Gotoken, a favorite curry restaurant, we boarded the hotel’s shuttle. On that day, the Tsugaru Strait had a calm seascape. After arriving at the hotel, I went out to see the nearby Todohokke fisheries port and lighthouse.

I went to bed early on that night, perhaps tired from two hours of walking around, or perhaps from the good effects of the self-therapy.

The next morning, I was in bad condition. Was the effect of the self-therapy an illusion?

I went out for another walk to take some pictures. It was warm again that day. As I walked, my eyes were caught by a cedar tree with a disturbing brown color – bad sign for cedar pollen.

I guessed that the reason for my poor condition that day was hay fever. This was completely unexpected. I heard that only birch trees could cause hay fever in Hokkaido Island, but it might be a different story in southern Hokkaido. It is true that about 20 kilometers across the Tsugaru Strait from the hotel is Honshu Island. Therefore, it would not be surprising if there were some cedar trees growing in the area. Unlike the Kanto area, where pollen dispersal was just about to over, this was probably the peak of the season in southern Hokkaido.

I have hay fever only from cedar trees, not from birch trees for sure. I thought I would not have hay fever, and did not bring any medicine with me. Moreover, there was no drugstore in the neighborhood in remote area of Hakodate.

Even so, thankfully my hay fever did not get much worse, perhaps because there are fewer cedar trees in the forest, or perhaps because there are fewer air pollutants.

When I returned to Hakodate city central in the afternoon of the last day, I finally found a drugstore. I thought I would be okay to return from Hakodate without any medicine, but the last and biggest event of the trip, the dinner at high-end sushi restaurant was planned just before my return flight.

I rushed into the drug store. There was a shelf of nasal inflammation medicine, but as much as seen in the Kanto area. I wondered if the demand was rather low. Still, the medicine was the same.

I finished up my trip at the sushi restaurant without a dripping from my nose. On the return flight, there were seats available on the award ticket, I took the last flight back to Tokyo. The weather was fine during the trip, and I returned to Tokyo extremely satisfied.

As I was sitting on the express bus from Haneda Airport to Yokohama Station, my Apple Watch beeped just before the Yokohama Bay Bridge as the bus entered Yokohama City. My Apple Watch was set to sound an alarm when my heart rate exceeds 120 beats per minute at rest. By the time I arrived at Yokohama station, it had calmed down to about 100. There was no way I could sleep when I got home in that state, and my insomnia returned back.

Is a three-day trip not enough time to deal with insomnia? Or do I need to have a passport for a self-therapy trip?

It is possible that the idea of traveling as self-therapy is an illusion. However, I would like to avoid the fundamental solution to my autonomic nervous system problem, so I need to devise a different coping remedy.

In order to come up with a new strategy, I need to reexamine my life from a new perspective. In order to make a fresh start, I decided to go to travel first.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Vietnam (Originally posted on 2024-Sep-08)

Times listed are the timetables at the time of the visit.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 0125 (Japan Airlines JAL079) >> Ho Chi Minh City 0515
Ho Chi Minh City 0745 (VetJet VJ302) >> Hue 0910

Tomb of Khải Định
Tomb of Minh Mang
Thien Mu Temple

Dinner: Madam Thu Restaurant

Overnight stay: Saigon Morin Hotel

Tips for the 1st day
– I was able to use Grab at Hue airport. The app indicated that the pick-up point was at the arrival exit, but it seemed that Grab pick-up in the airport was officially not allowed. I had to go to the parking lot. There was what looked like a cab counter at the baggage claim, so I guess I should have used that.

Day 2

Dong Ba Market
Hue Royal Palace

Dinner: Ancient Hue Garden Houses

Tips for Day 2
– I had a dinner at a restaurant in a luxury hotel. If you order a set menu, you can borrow a traditional court costumes for dinner. It was a bit embarrassing, so I gave up wearing of it in 10 minutes.

Day 3

An Cuu Market
An Dinh Palace

Hue 1310 (VetJet VJ305) >> Ho Chi Minh City 1435

Overnight stay: Hotel Majestic Saigon

Dinner: ANAN SAIGON

Tips for Day 3
– This might be an old info but I heard that there were three Michelin-starred restaurants in Vietnam. Two of them are in Hanoi and only one in Ho Chi Minh City. I was able to get a reservation. The testing menu is a modern version on local traditional dishes from all over Vietnam. It was innovative and delicious.

Day 4

Ho Thi Ky Flower Market
Thai Binh Market
Ton That Dang Market
Thanh Dinh Church
Central Post Office

Bar W

Ho Chi Minh City 2320 (Japan Airlines JAL070) >> Haneda 0650+

Tips for the 4th day
– I wanted to go to a water temple in the afternoon, but I was exhausted by the summer heat after visiting the markets in the morning, so I decided not to. I left luggage at the hotel and went sightseeing in the city, using a bench at the air-conditioned Takashimaya Department Store as base. Probably of all the shopping centers in all of Vietnam, the air conditioning in this Takashimaya is the best. Even for staying longer hours from time to time, I hope to be forgiven because I bought a long-sleeved shirt and some souvenirs.
– The Takashimaya has a UNIQLO store. I bought domestically made shirts; I have never thought to buy domestically made product at UNIQLO. I was impressed by a small exhibit on the working environment of factory employees.
– The person who used to own a bar at Yanaka in Tokyo has now moved to Ho Chi Minh City. I had been the bar only once when I lived nearby, but some bartenders introduced the new place to me. Just one step from a Vietnamese hustle and bustle alley, I found myself in an authentic Japanese bar. I heard interesting stories about the difficulty of making cocktails with local fruits.

Memories of Saigon (Originally posted on 2024-Aug-26)

I have used Ho Chi Minh City Airport several times for transit, but I have only been to the city once. At that time, I checked my luggage at the airport, took a local bus to the city center and eat pho. The actual time spent outside the airport was about two hours or less. If I keep passing through Ho Chi Minh City Airport for connections, I may dislike the city without knowing what it can offer. I decided to stay one night in Ho Chi Minh City and explore the city during my visit to Vietnam this year.

As I felt during my stay in Hanoi last year, it was difficult to choose a hotel in a big city in Vietnam, perhaps because I was caught the hotel rates in Japan before surge of foreign tourist, which was too low. Of course, there are many inexpensive hotels in such large cities of Vietnam, but they could be very different one another, hard to pick right one. Moreover, I am not good at hotels with poor sanitary facilities, so it is necessary to choose hotels carefully even though this was my first overnight stay in Ho Chi Minh City.

I first tried to book a hotel in Ho Chi Minh City for my Vietnam trip, but due to my complete lack of familiarity with the area, I could not find the right balance between location, facilities, and price. After endless searching, I made a reservation at a Japanese-owned hotel near the center of the city, which was almost newly built and seemed good price.

After that, I looked for a hotel in Hue where was my main destination, but I decided only on the basis of its location and style. Hue’s Perfume River has a bridge designed by the Eiffel architect office, who built the Eiffel Tower in Paris, and this colonial hotel is located at right in front of the bridge. Moreover, even a river-view room did not seem to be that expensive. Even though there are many nearby hotels in the same price range where were built in the recent years, I came to believe that the hotel must be a good old-fashioned place.

With this in my mind, I forgot the serious research I made when I first looked for a hotel in Ho Chi Minh City. I felt that a colonial hotel with a river view would be nice choice.

Once again, I looked for a hotel in Ho Chi Minh City along its Saigon River, and found a nice hotel called Hotel Majestic Saigon. It is a luxurious and historical hotel. There are river-view rooms with balcony, but they are expensive as expected in the high-class hotel market in Ho Chi Minh City.

The style of the hotel was probably influenced by the investment at the time of construction, but I thought that the hotel’s day-to-day management is affected by the current owner’s rate setting. If building is old, it will take more time and efforts to maintain service level which is highly likely impact to their sell rate. The hotel in Hue was inexpensive for such maintenance needs, and I had a feeling a bit uneasy about it. A luxury hotel on the last day seemed not a bad option. Still, if I think calmly, a newly built Japanese-affiliated hotel would be better option.

Although I pondered for a while, I still could not come to a calm decision. In the end, I decided to change my reservation to Hotel Majestic Saigon. Even better or worse, I initially booked a non-river view room but changed it to a river view room with a balcony at the last minute. I conveniently forgot that one night stay in Ho Chi Minh City was more expensive than two nights stay in Hue. As I stayed in a good old-fashioned hotel in Ho Chi Minh City, I wished to see good old Saigon.

It turned out, the first hotel I stayed in Hue was ok. It was not as bad as I had feared, nor not that good either. I thought the old-fashioned building would shine if there are more cost spending on maintenance, even if the price was higher. In the end, hotel rates are probably influenced by market, not by the maintenance itself.

Majestic Saigon, on the other hand, was wonderful.

When I arrived the hotel, main streets around were closed for vehicular traffic and the hotel staff was waiting in line. They even had a bouquet of flowers. I assumed that high-ranked government officials would visit that night.

I initially thought to make a gesture of accepting the flowers, but I knew they would not get the joke and it would embarrass them. This is probably the first and last time I made a calm decision regarding this hotel.

Speaking of bouquets, there is a flower market in Ho Chi Minh City. I enjoy going to local markets in Vietnam, but this was my first time at a market specializing in flowers.

The next morning, I got up early and took a Grab to the flower market. Although I might be a little late from its peak time, the market was colorful. After that, I visited two old-fashioned markets surrounded by modern buildings.

Staying at a good old hotel and visiting good old markets. To be honest, I was not too interested in the modern and chaotic Ho Chi Minh City, but my stay gave me a slight remainder of Saigon as it used to be.