Memories of Jiufen (Originally posted on 2024-May-27)

Last December, when I caught a flu-like cold, my mother came to my home with relief supplies. While we talked, she told me that she wanted to go to Jiufen, Taiwan.

I looked up the weather in Taiwan and found that it generally has a rainy season from April onward for about six months. I take my trips seriously and try to act quickly. I decided not to wait until next season. Looking up the calendar, there were two three-day weekends in February this year, but one of them was tied with Chinese New Year, so I decided to pass. I decided to take one day off to make it a four-day trip, as I thought it would be too much to take my mother on a lightning trip.

This was my second visit to Taiwan, and I had heard that Jiufen was extremely crowded. The last time I visited Taiwan was a 2.5-day weekend starting on a Friday afternoon, I did not go to Jiufen nor the National Museum in Taipei to avoid crows.

To avoid the weekend crows, we decided to spend one night in Jioufen on a weekday this time.

On the first day of the trip, we arrived at Taipei’s Songshan Airport around noon. Since this airport is located in Taipei City, we decided to take the UBER directly to Jiufen. It was cloudy when we left Taipei, but gradually began to drizzle. By the time we arrived in Jiufen, it was completely raining.

The inn where we stayed was located at the back of a public parking lot, but the parking lot was already overflowing with tourist buses. We gave up driving to the front of the inn and headed out on foot in the rain. Although nothing to do with the UBER driver nor Jiufen town, I started to have a bad feeling. I had my umbrella in my suitcase but unable to take it out in the rain, however, that was not the point of the problem.

We left luggage and went out to the town, it was already crowded. It was crowded as if I had come to see tourists. It was past 2:00 p.m. at that point, but since the town is famous for its night view, the number of people would probably increase as the evening progressed. Moreover, it was extremely difficult to walk in the narrow alleys with umbrellas. It was not good in any way. There was a coffee shop with a good view, so we decided to escape and see what was going on.

Even after spending some time at the coffee shop, the rain had not stopped, and the road below us was jammed with buses. There was no sign to get any better, so we gave up and decided to return to our inn.

I had heard that the tourist crowds would be decrease after around 8:00 p.m., when local buses from Jiufen back to Taipei would stop running. At 7:00 p.m., we went back into town again. The rain had not stopped, and the streets were still crowded, though perhaps a little less than at 2:00 p.m. Jiufen is a town of steep hills, and returning to the inn at the down of the hill is tedious and strenuous. We went into another coffee shop to kill time again. Although there is nothing bad about the cafe, it was not good in any way.

When we left the coffee shop at 8:00 p.m., the crowd had finally reduced. The rain did not stop, but we finally reached the front of a teahouse, a famous tourist attraction. I heard that there was another teahouse in front of this famous teahouse that had a viewpoint, so I went in to take some pictures.

In Japan, I rarely go a cafe, but this was the third time in half a day since I arrived in Taiwan. I have not consumed any alcoholic beverages yet, not even a glass of beer, despite the fact that I have consumed too much coffee or tea on that day. It was not good.

The only meal I had on this day was in-flight meal. I felt hungry, but meal serving time at the tea house was already over. It was not a good day.

While we were having cups of tea in traditional manner with a view of night scenery, my mother seemed to be cared by lao ban, an elderly gentleman of the tea house. After talking in Japanese for a while, he gave us a bento box. It must be an extra box made to tourist groups, but it was quite tasty. He even lent us plates to serve it on. Thank goodness for that. Finally, I could not wait any longer and said, “Lao ban, can I have a beer, please?” It was nice that Japanese was understood.

The rain continued until the next morning and it became a drizzle just before we left, but it was cloudy anyway. There were less crowded in the morning, so I ran up the hill for about 15 minutes to the famous teahouse to take pictures.

I heard that it rains a lot in Jiufen, not only on this day, but also throughout the year. It is too touristy place to take pictures. No matter where you take pictures, they will all look like pictures you’ve seen.

In the end, the only good memory of Jiufen was the bento box. It was thanks to the lao ban who made Jiufen into an unimportant place for us. 真是謝謝你.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Mt. Tanigawa

Article of this trip can be found here.

Times and other information are based on the timetable at the time of the visit.

Day 1

Tokyo 1340 (Toki 323) > Jomo Kogen 1443
Jomo Kogen Station 1450 (bus) > Yubiso Onsen Town 1523

Overnight stay: Yubinoso Onsen Nakaya

Tips for Day 1
– It takes about 1 hour from Tokyo to Jomo Kogen by Shinkansen. The time required is not much different from taking the Chuo Line to Mt. Takao, but there are reserved seats on Shinkansen and it is comfortable. The double-decker Shinkansen, which I used to hate because of my claustrophobia, has been eliminated, and current train even has GranClass option if you want. Mt. Tanigawa has a strong image of accidents related to rock climbing in the past, but there is also a ropeway, so it actually has an easy access.
– The buses between Jomo Kogen Station and Tanigawadake Ropeway are easy to use, which is surprising considering the numbers of trains available on the Joetsu Line especially north of Minakami.
– As I wrote in my previous blog, the Western-style food at “Nakaya” is excellent. For an extra charge, you can order carrot soup for dinner, which was also excellent. It would be best if they had a half bottle of wine on the liquor menu.

Day 2

Yubiso Onsen Town 0909 (bus) > Tanigawa-dake Ropeway 0920

Ropeway to Tenjin Pass for trekking

Tanigawadake Ropeway 1120 (bus) > Minakami Station 1143

Lunch: Soba Restaurant Kubota

Minakami Station 1248 (bus) > Jomo Kogen Station 1313
Jomo Kogen 1325 (Toki 320) > Omiya 1403
Omiya > Yokohama

Tips for Day 2
– I was able to take an earlier bus than expected from Mt. Tanigawa ropeway, so I tried to change my return Shinkansen one train ahead, but it was fully booked due to the summer vacation period. To kill time, I got off the bus halfway and went to a soba (buckwheat noodle) restaurant in front of Minakami Station. The lady in the hall was wonderful.
– I was back home when I noticed that there was a cafe at Doai Station, where is famous for its tunnel.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Hakodate (Originally posted on 2024-Jul-01)

Day 1

Tokyo 0632 (Shinkansen Hayabusa 1) >> Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto 1053
Shin-Hakodate Hokuto (JR Hakodate Liner) 1104 >> Hakodate 1120

Lunch: Gotoken

Gotoken 1330 (Shuttle bus) >> Hotel Keifu 1430

Overnight stay: Hotel Keifu

Tips for Day 1
– When I stayed at Hotel Keifu, I was told that I could choose any pick-up and drop-off point within Hakodate City, so I took advantage and asked to pick-up from Gotoken. Gotoken is famous for its curry.
– Hotel Keifu is located in what where was once Todohokke Village before it was merged with Hakodate City. The fishing port of Todohokke is about a 20-minute walk from the hotel. It is a nice place to stay.

Day 2

Hotel Keifu (shuttle bus) >> Hotel Hakodate Hirome-so

Overnight stay: Hotel Hakodate Hirome-so

Day 3

Hotel Hakodate Hirome-so 0830 (Shuttle bus) >> Onuma Park 0915

Onuma Park Boat

Onuma Park 1208 (Express Hokuto) >> Hakodate 1234

Mt. Hakodate
Goryokaku Tower

Dinner: Sushi Restaurant Kihara

Hakodate 1930 (Japan Airlines JAL588) >> Haneda 2100

Tips for Day 3
– Since the Hotel Hakodate Hirome-so included Nanae Town in its shuttle drop-off area, I asked the hotel take us to Onuma Park. I was grateful for that.
– We took the JR Hokkaido train from Onuma Park to Hakodate. The number of local trains are very few, but the limited express stops there, so it is rather convenient.
– Thanks to the limited express, I was able to get back to Hakodate City earlier, so headed for both Mount Hakodate and Goryokaku Tower. From Hakodate JR Station to Hakodate Ropeway Station was about 1,000 yen by a cab. The last time I visited Hakodate, I had walked during the winter season. At the time, I thought it would be difficult to climb the hill with snow, but I realized that snow was not the only reason for the difficulty. The uphill was too hard in a dry season, and it was an extremely economic to pay 1,000 yen (and save time too).