旅のエッセイ_Travel Essay - MAGIC HOUR

Insomnia / Akita | JNR Type Electric Locomotives

Akita General Rolling Stock Center

JNR Series ED75 & EF81

JNR Series EF81

JNR Series EF64-1000

Insomnia is said to be the root of all evil.

My insomnia came back around the end of February. It is said that exposure to strong lights from electronic devices late at night adversely affects falling asleep, but lying down in the dark makes me irritated. As a result, I end up browsing the web late into the night.

While I was surfing the web, I came across an information about an electric locomotive (EL) photo shooting event on the JR East website. Previously, I joined JR East event to see steam locomotive (SL) assembly process at their maintenance facility in Omiya, but this time was held at the maintenance facility in Akita. I like factory tours in general, and I also like old Japan National Railway-era ELs. Having said, I wonder if I have enough passion to go all the way to Akita.

I thought about major conditions. The event was scheduled for a three-day weekend when I had no other plans. Considering I had taken day off from work to go to the SL event in Omiya, the event date was far more favorable. However, while the distance from Tokyo to Omiya is an extension of my everyday life, Akita is clearly far away. It would cause a financial problem.

After thinking further, I realized there was something Akita had but Omiya did not – an airport.

I found that there were award tickets available on an early morning Japan Airlines (JAL) flight from Tokyo Haneda to Akita. Besides, if I took a Tokyo Haneda flight leaving Akita Airport by 5 p.m., I could make it in time for my favorite soba (Japanese noodle) restaurant in Tokyo, where was usually difficult to make a reservation. Award tickets were also available for this flight. Since I was able to reserve award tickets for both flights, major financial problem was solved.

Although I was able to book flights, a challenge was getting back from the JR East facility to Akita Airport in time for the return flight. After searching around, I found a scheduled shared taxi that went to the airport at relatively lower price. I made an online reservation for the taxi and finalized a plan that would allow me to make a day trip to Akita with the visit to my favorite soba restaurant. All of this happened very late at night.

On the following day, I made a reservation for the soba restaurant. Even though it was a popular restaurant, I was able to get a reservation if it was about a month ahead. I happened to recall that on the way back from the SL assembly viewing event in Omiya, I went to the same soba restaurant. JR East maintenance facilities and the soba restaurants may be the ultimate combination for me. There was no doubt making for a fulfilling day.

Insomnia may not be the root of all evil.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Akita

The times listed are based on the schedule at the time of the visit.

Haneda 06:55 (JAL161) > Akita 08:00

・Akita City Folk Performing Arts Heritage Center
・Akita City Akarenga (Red Brick) Folk Museum
・JR East Akita General Rolling Stock Center

Akita 16:45 (JAL166) > Haneda 18:00

Man Is a Thinking Reed / Aomori & Hokkaido, Japan | Trip on Donan Isaribi Railway

Sea of Japan in Winter Dusk

Henashi Fishery Port

Morning View from JR Gono Line

Afternoon View from Donan Isaribi Railway

In February, I visited Taiwan as a tour guide for my family trip. Even though the guide work ended up taking only about a half of the entire trip, I deserved a little reward for myself. Since I had already taken time off at work to go to Taiwan, I figured I should plan one-night weekend getaway.

For a Japanese person, a hot spring (“onsen” in Japanese) is the perfect way to treat yourself. With only two days, it is tempting to go somewhere nearby, but I believe travel is all about seeking an escape from the everyday. I wanted to go somewhere far away.

There is an onsen called Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen on the JR Gono Line in Aomori Prefecture. It is an inn famous for its seaside open-air baths, and I love the quality of the spring water – it is salty and has a little oil floating on top. Since the Onsen is not crowded in winter, I decided to revisit there.

The number of miles required for a Japan Airlines award ticket fluctuates based on demand. On the other hand, as long as I have enough miles, it is easier to make a reservation. For this trip, I planned to fly to Aomori Airport then take a bus to Hirosaki to catch the Gono Line. On the second day, I planned to take the Gono Line Rapid Service to Shin-Aomori, then take the Shinkansen to Hakodate for a sushi restaurant. From there, I would just take the last flight from Hakodate Airport back to Tokyo. It was just a combination of places I had visited several times before, so I thought there was not much to think about.

I had been constantly changing my travel plans in Taiwan. Since this was a trip rewarding myself after the Taiwan trip, it was probably better if it was not too novel.

When I boarded Hokkaido Shinkansen at Shin-Aomori, it turned out to be a train that stopped at every station to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto. It came to my mind that just going all the way to Hakodate might not be very interesting. Man is a thinking reed. I found myself thinking that it might be a time to think about something.

Once I get like this, I cannot stop myself.

I got an idea of taking “Donan Isaribi Railway (South Hokkaido Railway)” from Kikonai Station to Hakodate Station. I checked the timetable on the Shinkansen and found a train with good connection. Upon the train arriving at Hakodate Station, I would take a bus to the sushi restaurant and arrive right on time for my reservation. Even though it meant wasting a part of the Shinkansen fare, I decided to get off at Kikonai Station. I made that decision just one minute before the Shinkansen arrived at Kikonai.

The Donan Isaribi Railway was a local railroad. I boarded an old Japan National Railway (JNR)-style diesel train, the kind that even JR Hokkaido probably does not use anymore. Even more, a train passed at an intermediate station was painted in JNR’s vermilion color, adding even more charm to the experience.

True to its name, which includes “Isaribi (meaning fishing lights),” I was able to enjoy a leisurely journey on the Donan Isaribi Railway while gazing out at the sea of southern Hokkaido. I regret not buying a beer beforehand even though I had a little time to kill before the train departure.

By shifting my perspective just a little, I made a new discovery. Just because it was a reward trip to myself, I should not make it by inertia. After all, man is a thinking reed.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen & Hakodate

The times listed are based on the schedule at the time of my visit.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 07:15 (JAL141) > Aomori 08:35
Aomori Airport 09:00 (Konan Bus) > Hirosaki Station 09:54
Hirosaki 10:21 (JR Gono Line) > Fukaura 12:44

Lunch: Sailing

Fukaura 14:42 (JR Gono Line) > WeSpa Tsubakiyama 14:57

Accommodation: Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen

Day 2

WeSpa Tsubakiyama 10:38 (Resort Shirakami 1) > Shin-Aomori 13:27
New Aomori 13:59 (Hayabusa 17) > Kikonai 14:49
Kikonai 15:19 (Donan Isaribi Railway) > Hakodate 16:22

Dinner: Kihara

Hakodate 19:30 (JAL588) > Tokyo Haneda 21:00

Gap Between Ideal and Reality / Taipei | My Favorites Places

Letterpress Printing Shop

Tea Wholesaler

National Railway Museum

This trip to Taiwan was largely driven by spur-of-the-moment decisions.

By the time I returned to Taipei after I had finished my ride on Breezy Blue train, it was already past 9:00 p.m. Since I was flying back to Tokyo the following evening, I could stay in Taipei only for about half a day.

I went to Taiwan as a planner and tour guide for a family trip, but I was not sure if my guide duties were limited to Taichung. I believe in “Knowledge of Ignorance,” there are certain things better not to know. I deliberately let the time pass without knowing any plans for my final day in Taipei. Even though the departure had approached, it seemed I had no particular plans as a guide. Seeing this as an opportunity, I decided to fill my schedule in Taipei with whatever came to mind.

During my first trip to Taiwan, I took an express bus from Taipei to Yilan for a Kavalan Distillery visit. I would not be able to visit the distillery this time, but there was a bar in Taipei owned by the Distillery. I had heard that they had special whiskey aged in casks from famous French châteaux. Also, there is a flower market in Taipei that I have wanted to visit for a long time. Furthermore, I hoped to revisit the letterpress print shop and tea wholesaler I had visited at the first Taiwan trip.

While researching Alishan Forest Railway on a later day, I eventually found that National Railway Museum had opened in Taipei. It seemed to be partially open, but since it was originally Taipei Workshop of Taiwan Railway, I thought I would be able to take some nice photos there. I wished to visit the museum as well.

I had a lot of hopes, but without giving much thought to create a plan, I found myself arriving in Taipei. I took a first-class seat on Taiwan High-Speed Rail, intending to do some research during the ride, but I fell asleep. It was a completely useless expense.

Since the bar is only open at night, I headed straight there for whiskey. I tried three types of whisky aged in ex-Bordeaux casks and one type in an ex-Port Wine cask. Since they were cask strength, I ended up consuming quite a bit of alcohol.

While having whiskey, I thought about my plan for the next day.

Apparently, the flower market opens early in the morning. I would go back to the hotel for a quick sleep, head to the flower market, return to the hotel, and sleep again. Then, if I go to the Railway Museum at 9:30 a.m. as its opening time, I still have time to visit the letterpress print shop and the tea wholesaler before catching my evening flight. It was an ideal plan, indeed much better than a Japanese proverb “killing two birds with one stone.”

I was fairly drunk when I left the bar. I thought I was able to catch the last bus, but Google Maps was wrong. It happened to be a bus stop that had a real-time arrival information display, showing service for the day had ended. I was not bothered to use Uber to call a taxi and walked to the hotel. By the time I got back, it was past 1:00 a.m.

Going to the bar at 10:00 p.m. was not a bad idea. However, considering how much I was likely to drink, my plan for the next day was unrealistic. There is a Japanese proverb “easier said than done,” I had no choice but to face reality.

Stay up and go to the flower market or manage to wake up before 9:00 a.m. to visit the Railway Museum. If I did not choose one or the other, there was a high chance that I would be ended up “chasing two rabbits and catching neither” as said by a Japanese proverb.

I did not have the energy to stay awake till 3:00 a.m. and I realized that I even did not know where the flower market was. I was already drunk, so the best I could hope for was to wake up around 8:30 a.m. and head out to the Railway Museum.

I cannot travel only on ideals.