Category: 旅 / Travel

I am not just bad at socializing, rather, I fundamentally have trouble with interpersonal relationships. So, I have a few friends I can truly call such. I have almost none at work, but I do have some at the bars.

One day at one of such bars, I was invited to go to Sakata City in Yamagata Prefecture. A former regular at that bar lives in Sakata. My only condition was to board the limited express “Inaho,” which runs along the Sea of Japan, at sunset time. It was indeed already factored in the plan. With that, I made an instant decision.

Despite being slightly drunk at that time, I stopped by another bar before heading home. Still, I booked a hotel at Sakata during that night. A few weeks later, I reserved limited express trains on the days tickets went on sale. So far so good.

However, such enthusiasm is easily gotten excited but soon calmed down. On the day before departure, I had an opportunity to visit a Japanese-style izakaya bar where I had wanted to try in my junior high school days. Despite my early morning departure, I ended up bar-hopping for three places and came home completely drunk. I kind of knew that this might happen, I was not sure whether to be proud or ashamed that I had already finished packing before going out for drinking.

In the next morning, I had to take the first Joetsu Shinkansen train. I was not sure what time I got home the night before. I supposedly woke up after just a short sleep and boarded the Shinkansen at Tokyo Station without really knowing what was going on. I transferred to a limited express train at Niigata Station, and I had reserved a seat on the ocean side of the Green Car (first class). I thought of drinking beer while looking at the ocean in the morning.

However, by the time I arrived at Niigata Station, I was exhausted from my hangover and did not have willpower to buy beer during the transfer time. On the other hand, it seemed there were plenty of people who had the same idea and they were able to act on their plans. When the limited express Inaho No. 1 train departed from Niigata Station, sounds of beer cans opened echoed throughout the Green Car. At the same time, the sounds were my cue to fall into a deep sleep.

The limited express train was supposed to be running along clear skies of the Sea of Japan, but in the end, I arrived at Sakata Station without seeing much of the view. It was like sleeping all day in a luxury hotel with an ocean view, which in a sense is the ultimate luxury.

Perhaps thanks to my deep sleep on the train, I had recovered by the time train arrived at Sakata Station. One of the friends made a lunch reservation at a famous local sushi restaurant. Since I had already fully recovered by then, I was able to enjoy both sushi and sake. It would accomplish one of my major missions of the trip.

For dinner, I was taken to a soba restaurant deep in the mountains, where seemed to be main destination of the friends. It was a wonderful place, seemingly converted from an old farmhouse. Arriving just before dusk, I heard the evening cicadas chirping, the sounds gradually changed to the cicadas, and finally frogs. In a charming tatami room, I enjoyed sake and appetizers with delicious soba. I ended up ordering extra soba, and for some unknown reason, I also stopped at a Sakata Ramen shop before returning to the hotel.

In Sakata, there is a museum dedicated to Ken Domon, a famous photographer who was originally from the city. Since I run a photography-related blog, I probably should visit the museum and learn something.

However, I decided to avoid visiting the Ken Domon Museum of Photography. I was not a fan of museums in general, but that was not the only reason.

I just take typical photos at famous tourist spots. Moreover, I prefer vivid colors, which is the opposite of Ken Domon’s signature monochrome shadow. Even if I saw the works of a renowned photographer, I would probably just notice insurmountable differences with him. There was no need to come all the way to Sakata to realize something I already knew.

While searching for an alternative plan, I noticed that the Shonai area, where Sakata City takes a part, has many waterfalls fed by underground water from nearby Mt Chokai. The owner of the bar, where we initially discussed this trip, is originally from nearby town of Kisakata in Akita Prefecture. There was a spectacular waterfall in Kisakata, so I asked my friend to take me there on the second day.

Then it was time for the main event to me, the limited express Inaho No. 14 train back to Niigata in the evening. The weather was perfect. I took a seat on the ocean side of the Green Car again. The train left Sakata at 6:18 p.m., which was perfect timing because sunset was around 7:00 p.m. on that day.

Learning from my mistakes in the previous morning, I had decided to drink strategically for this evening train – I had not had any beer at the Sakara Ramen shop.

I had a glass of local beer at Sakata Station as a starter and boarded the train with some sake. I drank about three cups of sake while watching the sunset onboard. By the time the limited express train arrived at Niigata Station, I was pretty drunk.

It was the middle day of a three-day weekend, so I thought a late southbound Shinkansen to Tokyo would not be congested. However, it seemed there were some big events in Niigata, and the trains were full of young women. Even the Green Car seemed to be nearly full.

I was able to buy local Echigo Beer during my transfer at Niigata Station at this time. Using my embarrassment at my own drunken smell as an excuse, I changed to a Gran Class (premium class) seat with no passenger next to me.

As if to make up for my failed plan on the first day, I opened a can of beer as soon as the Joetsu Shinkansen departed from Niigata Station. Right after I went to throw away the empty cans when the train passed around Nagaoka Station, I then realized the Shinkansen was already approaching Ueno Station. Although it was my first time riding in Gran Class, but I slept soundly and the ride was almost over before I knew it.

On this trip, I enjoyed myself thoroughly where I wanted, but detailed execution of the plan was somewhat flawed. Drinking itself was not a problem, as it was a part of the game plan. The biggest problem was that I paid extra money for the trains without any purpose other than sleeping.

I had to convince myself that they were ultimate luxury.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Sakata

Times listed are based on the timetable at the time of visit.

Day 1

Tokyo 06:08 (Toki 301) > Niigata 08:10
Niigata 08:23 (Inaho 1) > Sakata 10:32

・Sankyo Warehouses
・Sushi Koise
・Sekikawa Shinaori Center
・Soba Restaurant Omatsuya

Accommodation: Wakaba Ryokan (where is supposedly good, but no non-smoking rooms available. I stayed somewhere else)

Day 1 Tips
・The main event for my friends was visit to Ohmatsuya. The surrounding atmosphere combined with good food made the place absolutely perfect. This restaurant has a branch at Ginza in Tokyo, but it is probably a different world compared to the Sakata.

Day 2

・Visit to fishery ports along the Sea of Japan
・Mototaki Waterfall

Lunch: Maesan Zero

Sakata 18:18 (Inaho 14) > Niigata 20:23
Niigata 21:11 (Toki 88) > Ueno 22:38

Day 2 Tips
・The Inaho No. 14 departs from Akita and runs along the Sea of Japan between Akita and Sakata as well. In March, sunset in Sakata is around 5:30 p.m., so boarding the train from Akita during that time may be a good idea. Bring sake aboard the limited express, gaze at winter leaden sky over the Sea of Japan, then disembark in Sakata after dark. Head to the sushi restaurant, then enjoy late-night Sakata ramen. Sounds good.

While reading news articles in early June, I learned that the ice had begun to melt at Mikurigaike Pond in Murodo on the Tateyama Alpine Route, turning the pond color to blue. At that time, I did not think much of it. However, a few days later, I heard my wife was taking a day off from work to visit to Kamakura with her friends. I could not find any logical correlation, but if that was the case, maybe I should have taken the day off too.

Just before the rainy season began, a high-pressure system passed over Japan on a Thursday to following Friday. Looking at my office schedule, that Friday was planned as a work-from-home day. Taking one-day off on the Friday would likely have minimal impact to my work. In Toyama Prefecture, Thursday evening seemed to be the best time, as the system was expected to move out over the Pacific side of Tohoku region by Friday morning. Even so, with both the low-pressure system and the rainy season front were far away, weather conditions did not seem bad.

While there seemed to be no logical correlation between my wife’s plan and my own, I reviewed my schedule logically. I realized that I had taken days off from work in the previous month to visit Gunma and Niigata, causing me to hesitate. In times like this, my theory is not to make decisions on my own will. Despite it was the day before, I managed to make a reservation at a sushi restaurant in Toyama City. This must be the gods of Toyama telling me to come. Since there was no use crying over spilled milk, I decided to go before I would cry. This was no longer a matter of logic anymore.

I boarded the first Hokuriku Shinkansen from Tokyo Station and then took a bus from Nagano Station to Ogisawa. The live camera showed Murodo was under clear skies. I hurried to Murodo via the Alpine Route. At Daikanbo, the last viewpoint overlooking Nagano Prefecture (the Pacific) side, it was mostly clear with a few clouds.

From there, I took an electric bus, passing through a tunnel under Mt. Tateyama to reach the Sea of Japan side. After a 4.5-hour journey from Tokyo Station, I arrived at Murodo, finding it was overcast. The sun was hidden behind clouds, and blue color of Mikurigaike Pond did not appear as vividly blue as I would hope.

Although they were little too far from what I expected, I thought it was okay as I was able to see the ridgeline of Tateyama Range. When I got out my camera from backpack, I heard a strange “goo-goo” sound. Although I thought it might be a weird tourist making a stupid noise, it was really a ptarmigan. It was indeed myself who was stupid at that moment.

I continued walking and saw several ptarmigans, making me wonder if they were really designated as Special Natural Monuments of Japan. Perhaps it was molting season, I was able to observe multiple plumage patterns.

After a while, the clouds thinned, and sunlight began to break through. I immediately returned to Mikurigaike Pond, the sunlight made the blue water shimmer. A miraculous moment occurred – the Pond’s waves stilled and Mt. Tateyama was perfectly reflected on the surface.

I savored the breathtaking view until the very last time before heading toward Toyama City for sushi restaurant.

The sushi restaurant was delicious, and I went back to Toyama Station just before getting completely drunk. I bought “oshi-zushi (pressed sushi in a wooden box)” as a final treat before heading to the Shinkansen platform. I was self-praised, thinking everything on that day was super perfect, but then I boarded the wrong Shinkansen. Being tipsy, I just jumped onto the first train arrived, then realized it was indeed the previous train.

In case like this, it was almost obvious that the train stopped at almost all stations beyond. Although the reserved train I should have boarded passed at an intermediate station and my arrival to home eventually delayed, I managed to get a seat on the return Shinkansen actually boarded. I supposed that was something good end. It was not super perfect, but overall, it was a highly satisfying day.

After all, if timing seems right, it is wise to act without hesitation. Fact of the matter is that I would not cry before the milk is spilled.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Tateyama Alpine Route

Tokyo 0616 (Kagayaki 501) > Nagano 0736
Nagano Station 0750 (Bus) > Ogizawa 0925
Ogizawa 0930 (Electric Bus) > Kurobe Dam 0946
Kurobe Lake 1010 (Cable Car) > Kurobe-daira 1015
Kurobe-daira 1030 (Ropeway) > Daikanbo 1037
Daikanbo 1045 (Electric Bus) > Murodo 1055

・Murodo

Murodo 1420 (Bus) > Bijodaira 1510
Bijodaira 1540 (Cable Car) > Tateyama 1547
Tateyama 1603 (Train) > Toyama 1700

Dinner: Sushi-ei Kakeo Branch

Toyama 1940 (Kagayaki 516… missed) > Tokyo 2156

Tips
・Since Murodo is in Toyama Prefecture, I thought going via Toyama would be faster, but it turns out going via Nagano saves about an hour.

When I visited Yokokawa for the second time in May, I was told that trekking to Ichinokurasawa of Mt. Tanigawa in that week was impossible due to road closure, yet I had already taken Friday off. I considered just going to the Tanigawa Ropeway, but I felt it would be somewhat unsatisfactory as a one-day trip. Besides, upon checking the online live camera, I found that there was a little late-lying snow on Mt. Tanigawa at the end of May. It was quite different from what I had imagined. I probably did not make enough research last year when I thought of seeing the late-lying snow on Mt. Tanigawa.

I could cancel my company leave, but I was already in a three-day weekend mood and had lost all motivation going to work on Friday. While I looked at maps thinking about where to go, I remembered that I thought of visiting Kiyotsu Gorge Tunnel in Niigata Prefecture.

The foothills around Joetsu area, where the Tunnel located, would be in their fresh green season. It was still before the peak summertime, it probably would not be too crowded on a weekday.

I took Joetsu Shinkansen from Tokyo Station bound for Echigo-Yuzawa. I hoped to arrive right after the Tunnel opening time, when it would likely be the least crowded, so I took a taxi from Echigo-Yuzawa Station. The first northbound Shinkansen and the local bus, which only run a few times a day, did not connect well by missing almost ten minutes gap. Kiyotsu Gorge Tunnel is a difficult spot for one-day trip using public transportation from the Kanto region.

Under the blue sky, the fresh greenery was dazzling. Wildflowers bloomed along the river in the valley. Water was filled in the pool at the deepest part of the Tunnel, reflecting the blue sky and valley on its surface. There were few visitors as expected, allowing me to take photos at a leisurely pace.

However, there were some snow residuals remained in the valley, slightly blocking the view in the shadier corner. Perhaps I came just a bit too early in the season. My first visit to Yokokawa in May failed due to insufficient research, but even crossing the Joetsu border into Niigata Prefecture, I wondered if I did not make enough research.

Although they were snows, because of branches and leaves had fallen, they looked like some brown masses. At first, I did not mind too much, but after taking several shots, they started bothering me. I would have to rely on AI correction when processing the RAW files in Adobe Lightroom.

I could not take a taxi back considering costs, so I adjusted my schedule and took the local bus to Echigo-Yuzawa. Only three other passengers were on board. They all boarded at the bus stop nearest the Kiyotsu Gorge Tunnel, so they must have had the same fate as me on the way there.

I could have just going straight back to home. However, I had heard there were large colonies of dogtooth violets in the nearby town of Muikamachi, so I went to see the flowers. I thought I had read mid-May was the peak time, but there was no trace of dogtooth violets at all. In fact, locals were removing the restricted access ropes on that day. I walked quite a distance from Muikamachi Station, only to end up wasting my time. Ultimately, it was due to another poor research, and it was obvious that I had not learned from mistakes made several times.

There is a Japanese saying that even monkeys fall from trees. A monkey who falls from a tree must surely learn something afterwards. Otherwise, he cannot survive in the harsh wild.

As a human, I should be intellectually more evolved than a monkey. Indeed, I can write and maintain a blog site, I can handle some mathematics as well. None of such can be done by monkeys for sure.

That said, even after falling from a tree, it seems I do not actually learn much. I have to wonder if I am really fundamentally smarter than monkeys.

Questioning my dignity as a member of humanity, I ate bamboo leaf dumplings, which are famous in Joetsu, on the Shinkansen ride home. Whatever the answer to that question may be, both riding the Shinkansen and eating bamboo leaf dumplings are privileges of being human.

I am glad that I am human.

COLO’s Traveller Guide: Echigo-Yuzawa

Times listed are from the schedule at the time of visit.

Tokyo 0608 (Toki 310) > Echigo-Yuzawa 0722
Echigo-Yuzawa Station (Taxi) > Kiyotsu Gorge Tunnel

・Kiyotsu Gorge Tunnel

Kiyotsu Gorge Entrance 1212 (Bus) > Echigo-Yuzawa Station 1240
Echigo-Yuzawa 1314 (JR) > Muikamachi 1336

・Iizunayama

Muikamachi Station Front (Bus) > Shiozawa Post Office

・Shiozawa-juku

Shiozawa 1631 (JR) > Echigo-Yuzawa 1649
Echigo-Yuzawa 1708 (Tanigawa 86) > Ueno 1814