Category: 旅のしおり / COLO’s Traveler Guide

On the three-day weekend after New Year holidays, I went snow trekking in Goshougake Onsen. I had originally planned to visit Goshogake at the end of January using my compensatory holiday for my duty day during New Year holidays, but since the hotel was closed for renovation work, I had to advance my schedule. I was supposed to be satisfied with the three-day weekend, but the weather was not good and the photos were not good enough either.

In other words, I was not fully satisfied, and I still had day off from the New Year holiday. Without much thought, there was only one conclusion.

Even so, January was extremely busy, time passed without anything materialized. As the end of the month approached, I remembered my company rule that compensatory holiday must be taken within four weeks. I quickly decided to take one day off and made out a three-day weekend. However, my schedule was already packed on Saturday, and I looked for a two-day trip from Sunday to Monday.

This winter weather was said to be mild in Japan, but I still wanted to go somewhere with snow. Since I did not have time to make a plan from scratch, I decided to revisit Oirase Keiryu (mountain stream), where I visited several years ago, as a place where I could enjoy photography.

As expected in the off peak season, there were seats available on frequent flyer award ticket even at the last minute.

On the 1st day, fly from Tokyo to Misawa, then take local bus to Hachinohe and connect to a hotel shuttle bus to Oirase. Taking advantage of the hotel’s local activities provided, I can photograph the Oirase Keiryu day and night without renting a car.

On the way back, I can took a shuttle bus to Aomori Station and then take the Hokkaido Shinkansen to Hakodate where I can visit at a high-end sushi restaurant, finally go direct from the restaurant to Hakodate Airport return to Tokyo on the last flight.

When I came up with this plan, it was a few days prior to the departure. I had to make arrangements as early as possible. Without thinking much about, I got the airline tickets. Finally, I realized the hotel cancellation fee was already 100% as it was a last minute.

Once the hotel reservation was made, there was no turning back. I made sure things work out, but while there were rooms available, both shuttle bus and local activities were full. The only way was to rent a car, but I do not like driving. I have only driven in summer, and snow-covered roads were new to me. I heard that the rental car was equipped with studless snow tires, but I guess such tires are not omniscient god.

I did not have much time to worry about it, but I decided to give up the idea of going to Oirase. However, I had already taken a day-off and booked a plane tickets. It was the last weekend when I could take a compensatory day off, and I didn’t think it would be a good idea to pay a cancellation fee for free tickets. I decided to stay in the Hakodate area and look for an onsen, considering the high-class sushi restaurant to be the main part of the trip.

Hakodate is known for its Yunokawa Onsen, but since it is within the city area, I decided to pass on that. After carefully looking at a map of southern Hokkaido, I found a hot spring resort called “Hotel Keibu” on the outskirts of Hakodate. It is located near the entrance to the Tsugaru Straits, heading east from Hakodate City. I checked out the hotel and found that it was possible to request a pick-up service, so I made a reservation in the afternoon of the day before departure.

I had to catch a plane from Tokyo Haneda Airport at 7:35 a.m. to Misawa Airport in order to catch the Shinkansen train to Hakodate, which departed from Tokyo Station at 8:20 a.m. This made no sense, but I connected all the way Misawa / Hachinohe / Shin-Aomori / Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto by trains, and headed for Hakodate.

When the Shinkansen exited the Seikan Tunnel onto Hokkaido Island, there was a blizzard. From Hakodate Station, we boarded a hotel shuttle and proceeded along the Tsugaru Strait. All it was a very sadly monotone world.

However, it was not only a monotone world. By the time I arrived at the inn, it was blizzarding so hard we couldn’t even see around.

The next day, the temperature rose and it rained heavily. There was a lighthouse in front of the hotel and a fishing port within walk away, so I brought my camera in hopes of taking some pictures, but it was useless.

Before departing from the hotel, there was a moment when the rain stopped slightly, and I was able to go out and take a picture of the lighthouse. I braved walk into the accumulated snow to take a photo, but it was cold with strong winds so I gave up early. In the rest of the trip, I had not taken the camera out of my bag. In the end, I finished the trip with far fewer shots than at Goshougake, which I had left dissatisfied.

As a photographer, I know weather condition is a matter of luck. Still, I was able to find a satisfactory lodging, including its rugged outermost location and nice stuffs. Since it is likely to be crowded in summer, I thought to revisit the hotel in late fall or early winter.

I should be satisfied with having found a good lodging, but I was not fully convinced by myself.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Hakodate

The times listed are the timetables at the time of the visit. I do not recommend my onward journey at all, just to show how irrational it was.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 0735 (Japan Airlines JAL153) >> Misawa 0855
Misawa Airport 0910 (Airport Bus) >> Misawa Station 0926
Misawa 0944 (Aoimori Railway) >> Hachinohe 1004
Hachinohe 1025 (Shinkansen Hayabusa 5) >> Shin-Aomori 1052 – 1120 (Shinkansen Hayabusa 7) >> Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto 1217
Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto 1235 (JR Line) >> Hakodate 1250

Hakodate Station 1400 (shuttle bus) >> Hotel 1520

Overnight stay: Hotel Keibu

Tips for Day 1
– The hotel was chosen without any plan at all, but it was wonderful. There were only 3 groups of 6 people staying on Sunday night, and I was able to spend a relaxing time.

Day 2

Hotel 1000 (shuttle bus) >> Hakodate Station 1120

Lunch: Lucky Pierrot

– Hakodate City Museum of Northern Peoples

Dinner: Sushi Restaurant Kihara

Hakodate 1920 (All Nippon Airways ANA558) >> Tokyo Haneda 2050

Tips for Day 2
– If you eat Lucky Pierrot (a famous local fast-food place) for lunch, it will affect the sushi from 5:00 p.m.
– If you start Sushi Kitahara at 5:00 p.m., you will be served before it gets crowded, so you can eat well and drink enough sake then to catch the last flight.

I love Goshougeke Onsen in Akira Prefecture. It has been about 15 years since the first time I visited, and it is especially nice in winter because there are fewer people.

January in 2023, I participated in a snowshoe trekking organized by Hachimantai Visitor Center for the first time. I enjoyed the spectacular snow-covered scenery, but the weather was not so good. For my 2nd trial seeking nice weather, I made a guided tour and lodging reservations for January of this year. Since I made the reservations two months in advance, with a national holiday in mind, I had no choice of days I stayed.

In reality, it was more of a gamble. When selecting travel destinations, I often check the weather trends on Weather Spark, and according to this site, the chance of clear skies is as low as 15% in Akita Prefecture in winter.

On the other hand, the probability of precipitation is also low, around 30%. However, the site does not seem to count precipitation of less than one millimeter, so the probability may be much higher if you include days with light snow. Even if I cannot aim for clear skies, I would like to avoid snowfall in my photos.

By the way, nothing good has happened since last December. I thought that things could suddenly get better after new year came. On the day of the tour, the same guide as last year made the same comment when we started the tour. “If you want to take pictures, you have to come when it’s sunny”. Well, the weather was such that in this year too.

After a while, the weather turned into a blizzard. It was definitely worse than last year. I knew I cannot statistically expect clear skies, but it does not have to be a blizzard.

The worst blizzard was occured when we climbed the hill overlooking the steam-spewing swamp. The view was spectacular, but snow was flying up from bottom of the hill, making low visibilities. If this is a result of my daily life, I must be a terrible person.

As is often the case, it was turned sunny when we returned to the onsen hotel. The guide asked me with a smile, “Will you come back for the third time?”

Some of the hotel staff knew that I participated in the snowshoe trekking, and after I returned, they told me that they were glad the weather was clear. The kindness of the Akita people touched my heart, but the Akita sky accused me that I was not a good person.

Next year, I will try for the third time. It is difficult to improve my human nature, but as long as I keep doing it many times, one day I will be able to win the gamble.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Northen Akita

The time and other information are the timetable at the time of my visit.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 0855 (All Nippon Airways ANA719) >> Odate-Noshiro 1005
Odate-Noshiro Airport 1020 (airport bus) >> Odate Station 1113

Lunch: Hanazen

Odate 1336 (Hanawa Line) >> Kazuno Hanawa 1428
Kazuno Hanawa 1435 (shuttle bus) >> Goshougeke Onsen 1520

Overnight stay: Goshougeke Onsen

Tips for Day 1
– I originally wanted to visit “Akita Hinaiya” on this day, but my flight from Tokyo Haneda was delayed for about an hour, and it was past noon when the bus actually arrived Odate Station, so I had to give up. I decided to go to “Hanazen” in front of Odate Station, which was originally planned for the third day. Freshly made chicken rice was delicious.
– The bus at Odate-Noshiro Airport was new and larger than last year, which was a welcomed change since it used to be crowded on its way to Takanosu Station.

Day 3

Goshougeke Onsen 0930 (shuttle bus) >> Kazuno Hanawa 1020
Kazuno Hanawa 1053 (Hanawa Line) >> Higashi-Odate 1141

Lunch: Akita Hinaiya

Odate 1357 (Limited Express Tsugaru 4) >> Takanosu 1414
Takanosu 1440 (Akita Nairiku Line Express) >> Kakunodate 1641
Kakunodate 1702 (Shinkansen Komachi 38) >> Omiya 1939
Omiya >> Yokohama

Tips for the 3rd day
– Got off the train at Higashi-Odate Station and walked to “Akita Hinaiya”. The restaurant served excellent “Hinai Chicken” oyakodon (chicken and egg bowl) and treated us wonderfully.
– Sake was sold on the express train of Akita Nairiku Line. We headed for Kakunodate in a warm train, enjoyed winter scenery as we sipped sake. It was a nice time.