Last year, a nationwide travel support program was implemented by Japanese government. It was a miraculous policy that the government provides subsidy for going out and having fun.
I had planned to visit to “Hozumi-tei” in Uwajima, Ehime Prefecture to eat tai-meshi (sea bream rice) in last November, but I was an office worker indeed. Unfortunately, the timing of the trip was such that “being in the office itself is work” due to some visitors I was not directly interact with. It seemed absurd to me, but I had to accept reality and canceled the trip just in order to say “hi” to someone who would forget about me within a few minutes.
While I deplored my absurd misfortune, the travel support program was extended for one more month. I decided to go to Kushiro instead. I wished to see Kushiro Marsh in winter. An ambitious plan was made, in addition to Kushiro Marsh, I was going to take JR Senmo Line to Kawayu Onsen for an overnight stay, then heading further north to Abashiri and take a limited express train to Sapporo, whose cars were planned for replacement in this spring.
I have been visiting Kushiro about once in a while, partly because my favorite restaurant in Tokyo introduced me to an izakaya (Japanese style bar) in Kushiro.
On the day before my departure, a bomb cyclone was developed from the Sea of Japan to the Sea of Okhotsk, and Hokkaido Island was hit by heavy snowfall. I asked the owner of the izakaya in Kushiro for local weather, he told me that Kushiro was mixed of rain and snow. He also told me the roads in Kushiro were badly wet although not much of snow accumulated. On the other hand, according to JR Hokkaido’s website, limited express service between Abashiri and Sapporo would likely be suspended due to the difficulty of snow removal work in inland mountain area.
It seemed absurd to me, but I had to accept reality and gave up on taking the limited express train from Abashiri. Instead, I would return to Kushiro, take different limited express to Sapporo as I already booked air ticket from Sapporo New Chitose to Tokyo Haneda. The night before departure, I made arrangements for various changes and set out for Kushiro wearing Gore-Tex sneakers as a precaution, which prevent water penetrating even if they get wet.
This was a mistake.
I had bought these shoes several years ago, it seemed that the soles of the shoes did not drain well, so they can be slippery depending on the surface. Especially wet tiles were bad, and I once slipped and fell at the entrance of my apartment building.
I had not taken this into consideration when I left my home. I should have imagined when the temperature drops, the badly wet road surface would be frozen. It was no surprise that shoes that slip on wet tiles would do the same on the ice or it could be even worse.
It was no problem in Kushiro Marsh because snow remained from the previous day, but the road surface in Kushiro town center was already frozen. Moreover, the temperature was below zero even during the daytime, so the road surface was kept slippery all the time. After having hard times walking and almost falling down several times in Kushiro, I tried to head for Kawayu Onsen. However, due to a fallen tree by heavy snow, the JR Senmo Line operation was suspended. Everything in Kushiro was absurd.
I had come all the way to Hokkaido, but staying at a budget hotel in the city for the rest of the night did not sound appealing. Besides, adding a night in Kushiro, where was no snowfall, would increase the risk of slipping on the ice surface and falling down. On the other hand, it would be foolish to advance the flight home for one day just because of the slippery shoes. All of them were absurd.
While grieving for absurdities, I managed to find an alternative onsen hotel in Akan Lake area. The gods of Kushiro saved me at the last minute.
It was too absurd to fall down because of poor drainage of the shoes, despite the fact that I had bought shoes that were made of water-resistant material. It was probably a warning from the gods of Kushiro that it was time to give up on the bad shoes.
I came to Kushiro by absurdity at work, but I could not escape from the absurdity even after arriving in Kushiro. I decided to buy a new pair of shoes after returning home and prepare for my next winter trip to Kushiro.
COLO’s Traveler Guide: Kushiro
The times are based on the timetable at the time of the visit.
Day 1
Tokyo Haneda 1135 (All Nippon Airways ANA741) >> Kushiro 1310
– Kushiro Marsh (Onnenai Visitor Center)
Overnight stay: Kushiro Prince Hotel
Dinner: Shubo Chiba
Tips for Day 1
– According to weather forecast the day before, it was predicted sunny only on this day. After much of thoughts, I requested a sightseeing (time charter) taxi from the airport to Kushiro Marshlands and then to Kushiro City. However, it turned out to be cloudy. Good Grief…
Day 2
Kushiro Station 0855 (local bus) >> Onnenai 0940
– Kushiro Marsh (Onnenai Visitor Center)
Onnenai 1218 (local bus) >> Kushiro Station 1310
Kushiro Station 1450 (local bus) >> Lake Akanko Onsen 1650
Overnight stay: La Vista Akan River
Tips for Day 2
– In the morning, I took a local bus to Kushiro Marsh. Buses are infrequent, but the schedule allowed about 2.5 hours to stay in the Marsh area. This was enough for a good walk and have a little extra time. There is a seating space inside the Onnenai Visitor Center for waiting return bus. It is quite comfortable.
– The journey from Kushiro Station to Lake Akanko was supposed to take two hours according to the timetable, but due to the snow, it took about two and a half hours. The bus was a standard route bus, and the long ride was hard on my legs and backs.
Day 3
Lake Akanko Onsen 1020 (local bus) >> Kushiro Station 1220
Kushiro 1342 (JR Limited Express Ozora 8) >> Minami Chitose 1729
Minami Chitose 1735 (JR) >> New Chitose Airport 1739
Sapporo New Chitose 2120 (All Nippon Airways ANA084) >> Haneda 2300
Tips for Day 3
– The return bus from Lake Akanko Onsen was crowded. On this morning, a sightseeing bus was assigned so that I could return to Kushiro Station easily and everyone on board got seated. The local bus company, Akan Bus, did a wonderful job.
