Memories of Drift Ice (Originally posted on 2023-Jun-16)

Last year, I visited to Monbetsu and Abashiri to see drift ice because I thought there were fewer travelers due to COVID-19 outbreak. In fact, hotels and airline tickets could be changed at last minute. After a quick change of plans just few days before departure, I got into the clear skies and I was able to enjoy the drift ice.

It is a human nature to wonder if there are any birds of this year in last year’s nests. I wanted to go back to see the drift ice again. Due to my own arrangement mistake, I had to reschedule first half of the trip from Kushiro to Kawayu Onsen. However, as expected, I was not able to change my schedule for Abashiri and Monbetsu during the peak season of this year. I had a pretty much fixed schedule, and all I could do was to hope that the weather would be cooperative.

Unfortunately, the weather forecast was cloudy during my stay. If heavy snow was expected, I would have considered returning to Tokyo early, but the forecast was not that bad. I had to leave the weather to the gods of Hokkaido.

From Kawayu Onsen, I took a tourist bus to Abashiri. It was sunny early in the morning, but as I headed toward Abashiri, it gradually became cloudy. I wondered if there is no birds of this year in last year’s nests after all.

With a reservation made in advance, I boarded an icebreaker boat in Abashiri despite the poor weather. Although the scenery was magnificent, it was a bit of lacking from a photographic point of view.

From Abashiri, I continued the bus to Monbetsu. The windows of the bus on winter roads were dirty and the scenery outside was dark and somber. I fell into a sleep on its long way.

When I woke up just before Monbetsu, the light outside the window was slightly brighter. It was hard to believe at first glance, I wondered if the weather was clearing up. Was the weather forecast wrong?

When I got off the bus at Monbetsu Port, it was perfectly clear. I took an evening icebreaker boat for the sunset cruise. Last year, it was partly cloudy on the sunset cruise, so I might say that this alone was worth the trip to Monbetsu again. It was wonderful.

In the evening, I enjoyed at a local sushi restaurant.

The forecast for the next morning was cloudy again. Since weather forecast is just a forecast, it can be wrong. However, it is unlikely to be wrong for two days in a row.

By the way, the room on that day was exactly the same room in the same hotel as last year. If such a miracle could happen, I wonder if there could be some birds of this year in last year’s nests.

I decided not to have excessive expectations and went to bed. Still, it is human nature to be anxious, I had a nightmare that it was cloudy when I woke up.

When my alarm went off a little after 4:00 a.m., the sky was clear in reality. It was unusually cold, but my heart was warm. I headed for the sunrise cruise.

Thanks to the gods of Hokkaido, there were indeed many birds of this year in last year’s nests.

Memories of Kushiro (Originally posted on 2023-May-28)

In one afternoon of last year, I looked at 2023 calendar and discovered that if I took a Friday off in late February, I would have a long four-day weekend. At that time, foreign tourist demand to Japan was still low, and I wanted to go see the drift ice once again. I put aside my work for the day and started thinking about my schedule.

Since I have four days, I wished to participate in trekking around the Shiretoko Lakes during the severe winter season. After deciding on the schedule, I returned home early and completed my airline and hotel reservations. Because I made the arrangements a little too early, the Shiretoko trekking was not accepting reservations, I had to make its arrangement on a later day.

After that day, I was busy traveling. I went to the Maldives and got a bad sunburn, and then went to Kushiro on a whim. I forgot everything for the Shiretoko Lakes.

When I came to realize I had not made trekking reservation, it was already in January. Similar 4-day schedule seemed to come to everyone’s mind, and it was already impossible to make any trekking reservations at all. I checked several times to see if there were any cancellations, but it seemed to be impossible. It was a big mistake.

While I was in deep desperations, I found that the Kushiro Marshland Onnenai Visitor Center was offering rental snowshoes. I thought about it and recalled that the weather at Kushiro Marsh was not so good during my last visit in 2023. It would be good to revisit there.

I checked the flight schedule from Tokyo to Kushiro, and found that there were a few seats left, and the last room at a hotel in Kawayu Onsen, where I had to give up last time owing the JR Senmo Line was suspended due to an accident, was still available. In addition, initial onward air ticket from Tokyo to Memanbetsu, the gateway to Shiretoko, had been purchased at a fare that could be cancelled with a small fee. With all these conditions in place, I decided to give up Shiretoko visit and go to Kushiro instead. All has been fixed just about 10 days before departure.

I took a flight leaving Tokyo Haneda at around noon for Kushiro. The forecast for the first day was cloudy, so I did not have high expectations, but it was sunny when I arrived. Kushiro calls itself as one of the three best sunset cities in the world. I took a walk to Kushiro Port to watch the sunset.

The next morning, the weather was clear as predicted, and I took a bus from Kushiro Station to Kushiro Marsh. It was cloudy when we arrived at Onnenai, but it cleared up after a while. Finally, we were able to enjoy the winter scenery of Kushiro Marsh in the best weather.

It seemed that snowshoes were not necessary to walk along the wooden paths in the Marsh at that time of the year. Still, there was more snow than last December, so I could enjoy a different scenery. I encountered many deer. Contrary there were almost no human visitors, and I was able to enjoy the magnificent scenery in peace.

I returned to Kushiro Station by bus and took the JR Senmo Line to Kawayu Onsen. Local trains in Hokkaido are operated with only one or two diesel train cars. Nevertheless, it took a long time to get on and off the train due to the overflow of people into the narrow aisles. The train was delayed for about 30 minutes due to the congestion. Since the train ride is long in Hokkaido, the train should have one more car on occasional crowded days.

The weather did not stay fine for long, and it was cloudy when we got off at Kawayu Onsen station. I took a local bus to the onsen town center. It was a nice hotel with excellent hot spring water.

The next morning was forecast to be cloudy, but it was fine when I woke up. The bus to Abashiri would leave Kawayu Onsen around 10:30. I called a local cab company to visit Mt. Io-zan and back. The weather had been bad when I visited there a few years before, so I decided to give another try. The sulfur-yellow surface of the mountain was covered with a cloud of steam. It was a wild sight.

I had missed going to Kawayu Onsen twice in the past due to the weather, but this time, I managed going there because of my own mishandling of the arrangements. After so many trips I have made, I should have more control on making proper arrangements. However, as is often said, “all’s well that ends well.” As a result, I had a wonderful stay in Kushiro area.

Memories of Croatia

Last year, I went to Europe for the first time after COVID-19 outbreak and quite enjoyed. In the past few years, I had to repeat short trips. However, since the trip was a relatively long duration and visited locations without much of direct flights, I had to be creative in making travel arrangements. I liked working on travel plans, so the whole process was a fun indeed.

Perhaps they have fundamentally opposite nature, what I enjoyed during the trip were the religious sites and the liquor. In Bulgaria, I stayed in a Bulgarian Orthodox Monastery. Greek Orthodox churches were worth seeing for different architectural styles from the Bulgarian. In addition, both countries have cultures of distilled spirits, and I enjoyed them. In Germany, where the last country I visited, I was able to visit an old-fashioned beer hall, even though I was in Germany for less than a day.

As a whisky lover, Scotland comes first in my mind when I think of European distilled spirits, but it has already been about 15 years since my last visit there. The industry was in recession when I had interests on whisky for the first time, but in recent years it has become very popular and the price has skyrocketed. Furthermore, Isle of Islay, a famous Scotch whisky producing island, used to be a remote island where seemed almost the farthest land on the earth. Now, the island has become a famous tourist destination, and I cannot find it as interesting as used to be.

Geographically, next to Scotland is Ireland, where is also a famous whiskey-producing country. I am not familiar with Ireland, but I know Irish whisky prices are not as high as those of Scotch. Looking at map of Ireland, I see that it has scenic coastlines and many ruins of old Celtic churches. Moreover, perhaps I have strong images of the chaotic times due to the influence of the novels I love to read, but I think that the country is full of cynical, gloomy, and alcoholic middle-aged men.

Cynical, gloomy, and alcoholic.

This would be the perfect place for me. Checking on flights, I found that if I take a red-eye flight on Japan Airlines to London Heathrow, I can get to Dublin in the next morning. On the way back, I can fly or take ferry & train to London, stay overnight, and take another red-eye flight back to Tokyo. The schedule seemed pretty good, I made a reservation for the airline ticket.

Normally, I would have completed all the arrangements as soon as possible, but things were different this time. My insomnia had been worsening in the first half of this year. Despite I had too much free time in late nights, I had not done anything for several months after I got the airline ticket. In fact, I checked few points such as distillery tours or ways to travel from Ireland to London during such late-night times. However, they did not go any further. I had wasted time without making any reservations or even making any plans at all. One of reasons might be a rental car to get around Ireland, as I did not like driving. Yet, it was almost the first time for me to do nothing on travel plans for such a long time.

Around that time, I had to take a training session at work, it said insomnia was not good for mental health. I have been lethargic at work from time to time, but I should have taken as a bad sign that I was lethargic on travel. It may be necessary to take some countermeasures against insomnia that has worsened. As a new approach to my insomnia, I decided to change the destination of my summer vacation.

I needed to go to a place where I could feel positive. Let me go to somewhere refreshing and full of dazzling sun, opposed to cynical, gloomy, and alcoholic.

If I am looking for dazzling sun in Europe, I should look for it in southern part of the continent. Since I visited the Aegean Sea last year, the Mediterranean Sea or the Adriatic Sea would be a good idea. Few years ago, I visited Dubrovnik, Croatia and took a day tour to city of Kotor in Montenegro. I remembered that I liked Kotor but did not have much time there. I should be able to expect dazzling sun of Adriatic Sea.

I checked the airline tickets again and found that All Nippon Airways offered red-eye flights for both out/in Japan. For the most efficient way to get around, I decided to go to Dubrovnik first, and then take a bus to Kotor. On the last day, I fly from Podgorica Airport in the capital of Montenegro to Vienna, and catch returning flight to Tokyo Haneda.

On the first day of summer vacation, I arrived Dubrovnik via Frankfurt. A clear sky over the Adriatic Sea was supposed to be waiting for me, but the sky was full of clouds. When I arrived Dubrovnik, it was the first time I had seriously looked at the weather forecast. It said that cloudy or rainy weather was expected throughout my stay.

I left my luggage at the short-term apartment and immediately went to Walls of Dubrovnik while there were still few blue skies. The Walls is the most famous tourist attraction in the Croatia’s the most famous tourist destination. The entrance fee was quite high, 35 euros, or equivalent more than 5,500 yen owing weak Japanese yen.

After paying the admission fee, I heard a thunderous roar from somewhere. Looking at the land side, there was still blue sky, but looking out to sea from the top of Walls of Dubrovnik, it was cloudy, and what looked like a rain pillar could be seen in the distance.

Then, a thunderstorm came. It was a heavy rain shower with strong winds. There was no place to avoid them on Walls of Dubrovnik. I just had left my suitcase at the apartment and came to the Walls without doing anything, fortunately I still had my umbrella in my backpack. I found a place with a slight shelter from the wind. I ended up standing under torrential downpour for about an hour, my umbrella was broken and I was soaking wet on the first day of arrival.

Finally, the rain stopped and I resumed sightseeing of the Walls of Dubrovnik. The first round was not much for photography, so I decided to go on second round. Apparently one admission fee only allows one round. Considering the weather forecast was not promising for the next few days, I thought I should have done two rounds on this day even though I had to pay the entrance fee again. It was highly likely that first 35 euros/5,500 yen was complete waste of money.

The initial choices were Ireland where was cynical, gloomy, and alcoholic, or, Adriatic Sea where had refreshing and full of dazzling sun. In order for me to turn over a new leaf, it seemed like an easy choice. However, this visit to Adriatic Sea might not much different from going to Ireland. In fact, it might have been worse because the expensive entrance fee was wasted.