Author: COLO

Last year, a nationwide travel support program was implemented by Japanese government. It was a miraculous policy that the government provides subsidy for going out and having fun.

I had planned to visit to “Hozumi-tei” in Uwajima, Ehime Prefecture to eat tai-meshi (sea bream rice) in last November, but I was an office worker indeed. Unfortunately, the timing of the trip was such that “being in the office itself is work” due to some visitors I was not directly interact with. It seemed absurd to me, but I had to accept reality and canceled the trip just in order to say “hi” to someone who would forget about me within a few minutes.

While I deplored my absurd misfortune, the travel support program was extended for one more month. I decided to go to Kushiro instead. I wished to see Kushiro Marsh in winter. An ambitious plan was made, in addition to Kushiro Marsh, I was going to take JR Senmo Line to Kawayu Onsen for an overnight stay, then heading further north to Abashiri and take a limited express train to Sapporo, whose cars were planned for replacement in this spring.

I have been visiting Kushiro about once in a while, partly because my favorite restaurant in Tokyo introduced me to an izakaya (Japanese style bar) in Kushiro.

On the day before my departure, a bomb cyclone was developed from the Sea of Japan to the Sea of Okhotsk, and Hokkaido Island was hit by heavy snowfall. I asked the owner of the izakaya in Kushiro for local weather, he told me that Kushiro was mixed of rain and snow. He also told me the roads in Kushiro were badly wet although not much of snow accumulated. On the other hand, according to JR Hokkaido’s website, limited express service between Abashiri and Sapporo 　 would likely be suspended due to the difficulty of snow removal work in inland mountain area.

It seemed absurd to me, but I had to accept reality and gave up on taking the limited express train from Abashiri. Instead, I would return to Kushiro, take different limited express to Sapporo as I already booked air ticket from Sapporo New Chitose to Tokyo Haneda. The night before departure, I made arrangements for various changes and set out for Kushiro wearing Gore-Tex sneakers as a precaution, which prevent water penetrating even if they get wet.

This was a mistake.

I had bought these shoes several years ago, it seemed that the soles of the shoes did not drain well, so they can be slippery depending on the surface. Especially wet tiles were bad, and I once slipped and fell at the entrance of my apartment building.

I had not taken this into consideration when I left my home. I should have imagined when the temperature drops, the badly wet road surface would be frozen. It was no surprise that shoes that slip on wet tiles would do the same on the ice or it could be even worse.

It was no problem in Kushiro Marsh because snow remained from the previous day, but the road surface in Kushiro town center was already frozen. Moreover, the temperature was below zero even during the daytime, so the road surface was kept slippery all the time. After having hard times walking and almost falling down several times in Kushiro, I tried to head for Kawayu Onsen. However, due to a fallen tree by heavy snow, the JR Senmo Line operation was suspended. Everything in Kushiro was absurd.

I had come all the way to Hokkaido, but staying at a budget hotel in the city for the rest of the night did not sound appealing. Besides, adding a night in Kushiro, where was no snowfall, would increase the risk of slipping on the ice surface and falling down. On the other hand, it would be foolish to advance the flight home for one day just because of the slippery shoes. All of them were absurd.

While grieving for absurdities, I managed to find an alternative onsen hotel in Akan Lake area. The gods of Kushiro saved me at the last minute.

It was too absurd to fall down because of poor drainage of the shoes, despite the fact that I had bought shoes that were made of water-resistant material. It was probably a warning from the gods of Kushiro that it was time to give up on the bad shoes.

I came to Kushiro by absurdity at work, but I could not escape from the absurdity even after arriving in Kushiro. I decided to buy a new pair of shoes after returning home and prepare for my next winter trip to Kushiro.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Kushiro

The times are based on the timetable at the time of the visit.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 1135 (All Nippon Airways ANA741) >> Kushiro 1310

– Kushiro Marsh (Onnenai Visitor Center)

Overnight stay: Kushiro Prince Hotel

Dinner: Shubo Chiba

Tips for Day 1
– According to weather forecast the day before, it was predicted sunny only on this day. After much of thoughts, I requested a sightseeing (time charter) taxi from the airport to Kushiro Marshlands and then to Kushiro City. However, it turned out to be cloudy. Good Grief…

Day 2

Kushiro Station 0855 (local bus) >> Onnenai 0940

– Kushiro Marsh (Onnenai Visitor Center)

Onnenai 1218 (local bus) >> Kushiro Station 1310
Kushiro Station 1450 (local bus) >> Lake Akanko Onsen 1650

Overnight stay: La Vista Akan River

Tips for Day 2
– In the morning, I took a local bus to Kushiro Marsh. Buses are infrequent, but the schedule allowed about 2.5 hours to stay in the Marsh area. This was enough for a good walk and have a little extra time. There is a seating space inside the Onnenai Visitor Center for waiting return bus. It is quite comfortable.
– The journey from Kushiro Station to Lake Akanko was supposed to take two hours according to the timetable, but due to the snow, it took about two and a half hours. The bus was a standard route bus, and the long ride was hard on my legs and backs.

Day 3

Lake Akanko Onsen 1020 (local bus) >> Kushiro Station 1220
Kushiro 1342 (JR Limited Express Ozora 8) >> Minami Chitose 1729
Minami Chitose 1735 (JR) >> New Chitose Airport 1739
Sapporo New Chitose 2120 (All Nippon Airways ANA084) >> Haneda 2300

Tips for Day 3
– The return bus from Lake Akanko Onsen was crowded. On this morning, a sightseeing bus was assigned so that I could return to Kushiro Station easily and everyone on board got seated. The local bus company, Akan Bus, did a wonderful job.

Last year, I went to Sukayu Onsen during the New Year holidays, which was an unusual case for me. Basically, I believe it is better to stay at home during crowded New Year’s holidays and go on a trip after the second week of January.

When I visited Goshougake Onsen in Akita Prefecture two years ago, I learned that Hachimantai Visitor Center was offering snow trekking tours. There is a mud volcano surrounding Goshougake Onsen, which can be viewed from the trails during the summer months. It would be wonderful to see it in winter, as the scenery can be quite fascinating. Since I tend to act quick on my trip plans, I had thought to go back one year later in winter, but I had to give it up due to the construction work at Goshougake Onsen.

I maintained my forward-looking attitude for another year and started to make inquiries and reservations last October. I heard that there were a 2-hour trekking tour for beginners and a 3-hour trekking tour to fully enjoy the spectacular view. I have chosen the 3-hour course even though I had never worn snowshoes. I was able to rent everything from snowshoes to clothing, so it seemed to be a fairly easy way to have fun.

I had decided and booked on dates in mid-January, more than 3 months prior to the visit. I might have been too forward-looking, because I had been waiting for the visit almost two years. A phrase “too much of good thing can be bad” came to mind. I wondered if I would be alright.

On the way there, I flew from Tokyo Haneda to Odate-Noshiro Airport and travelled further from Odate to Goshougake Onsen. On the way back, I took the Akita Nairiku Railway from Takanosu, where was near Odate, to Kakunodate and returned to Tokyo on the Akita Shinkansen.

When main purpose of the trip is photography, difficulties are always the weather. Normally, I would like to spend longer time in one site, rather than visiting multiple sites in one trip. This way, I can have several opportunities to take photographs, higher chance to have nice weather.

Unfortunately, when I use the transportation service of Goshougake Onsen, I am not able to participate trekking on the day of arrival nor departure. I would have to stay two nights and join the trekking only once on the middle day.

I could not control the weather. Despite I could not prepare for the worst, I only hoped for the best. This methodology has never worked in my life.

It turned out, the afternoon of the day before the trekking was fine, and the morning of the day after the trekking was fine. Yet, it snowed on the day of the trekking, which was the most important day of three. I should be satisfied with the winter scenery even if cloudy, but snowflakes can be annoying because they would show up in the photos.

On the day of trekking tour, I was guided by two locals supposedly as a safety measure. I am a middle-aged man with an unusually stiff body, so I was relieved and grateful. We did some warm-up exercises and headed out. The fresh snow felt good.

It was my first time for snowshoe trekking, but the crampons worked well and it was easy to get used to. Climbing hills and sliding on the slopes, they were extremely fun. The view was even more spectacular than I imagined. It was wonderful to walk on a different route than the trails in summer.

As for the photos, the visibility was poor due to the snow. It is the same in life, being positive forward-looking attitude does not always bring positive results.

I am persistent to travel, so I will keep forward-looking attitude and try again next year.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Goshougake Onsen

The times and other information are based on the timetable at the time of the visit.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 0855 (All Nippon Airways ANA719) >> Odate-Noshiro 1005
Odate Noshiro Airport (airport bus) 1020 >> Nagakura-cho 1124

Lunch: Akita Hinaiya

Odate Station 1255 (Express Bus Michinoku) >> Kazuno Hanawa 1353
Kazuno Hanawa 1435 (shuttle bus) >> Goshougake Onsen 1520

Overnight stay: Goshougake Onsen

Tips for Day 1
– Lunch at Akita Hinaiya, with local Hinai chicken in oyako-don (chicken and egg bowl).
– Due to the heavy rainfall last year, the JR Hanawa Line was closed from Odate to Kazuno Hanawa. I took an express bus for this section.

Day 3

Goshougake Onsen 0930 (shuttle bus) >> Kazuno Hanawa 1020
Kazuno Hanawa 1032 (local bus) >> Odate Station 1203

– Akita Inu no Sato

Lunch: Hanazen

Odate 1357 (Tsugaru 4) >> Takanosu 1414
Takanosu 1438 (Akita Nairiku Railway Express Train) >> Kakunodate 1635

– Kakunodate Samurai District at night

Kakunodate 1901 (Komachi 46) >> Omiya 2139
Omuya >> Yokohama

Tips for Day 3
– On the way back from Kazuno Hanawa to Odate, I took a local bus. It was a long but interesting ride through the villages.
– I love the lunchbox called “Torimeshi (Chicken Rice)” sold at Odate Station (and other stations in Tohoku area), and the lunchbox shop has a restaurant in front of Odate Station. Usually the lunchbox is sold in normal temperature, but I was impressed by the freshly made warm chicken rice.
– In order to have river views, I wanted to make sure to have a seat on the right side of Akita Nairiku Line train from Takanosu, so I took JR limited express from Odate to Takanosu. I had a cup (cups, actually) of sake while looking at the snowy scenery of Ani River. It’s hard to resist.