Memories of Ine (Originally posted on 2022-May-18)

Luck does not last long.

Since I had good weather on my separated trips to Zao and Hokkaido, I looked for a destination where could be enjoyable even if the weather was bad. By that, it would be better to view the cityscape rather than the wilderness. Around that time, one of my friends raved about a fishing village called Ine in northern Kyoto. I decided to go there.

Ine is famous for its rows of houses called “funaya (boathouses)” along the bay, and I was told that I could stay one of these houses. Since funaya is a fishermen’s house, each house is managed independently. It is not easy to find available rooms from one website, but I searched for available rooms using the tourist association’s website as a starting point.

I found a room available at an inn located at a secluded part of the bay. It looked a little far from the center of the town, but I had heard Ine was a small town, so I booked the place without much of concerns.

I planned my trip on the assumption that I could be satisfied even if rained, but I was still concerned about the weather. After all, I checked the weekly forecast every day.

I set out on the Tokaido Shinkansen from Shin-Yokohama. At Kyoto, I changed to the Sanin Line express train and continued on to Miyazu on the Kyoto Tango Railway. From Miyazu, I changed to a bus and headed for Ine. It was a quite a long way.

Still, thanks to the early morning departure from Yokohama, I arrived early and wandered around the town of Ine after the lunch.

When it was time to check in, I walked to the funaya. It was indeed far away. Ine is considered as a small town in terms of population, but the houses are built along long and narrow road on the coastline of Ine Bay. The houses are apparently built where the winds from the Sea of Japan do not directly blow, thus there are parts of the Bay where are no buildings to avoid the winds. This made to feel the funaya even further away. After all, it was about 2 kilometers walk from the center of town.

The most serious problem was dinner. Since the funaya is a rental house, guests have to stay without a meal plan. I had made a reservation at a restaurant, but it was 25-minute or 2-kilometer walk each way. I did not go to Ine for a survival camping, but I had to walk about an hour for my meal. I was terrified to think what would have happened if it had rained on that day.

On the other hand, the funaya was wonderful. Thanks to the curved bay, I could enjoy the view of the boathouse town from the large window. I sat idly and gazed at the bay and houses along. View from the window was probably one of the best in Ine.

Although I was able to fully enjoy the wonderful scenery, the funaya was difficult to reach by public transportation. I initially thought I would not be regretted in Ine even if rained because all I wanted to do was enjoying its townscape. However, if it had rained, I would surely have regretted in a different way. Luck lasts slightly longer than I thought.

It was a good funaya where I have chosen even though I knew nothing about the town, but it was also a funaya that I would not chose if I knew something about the town.

Knowing is a power. In the age when we can research anything we want to, not knowing is also a power.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Ine

The time shown is the timetable at the time of the visit.

Day 1

Shin-Yokohama 0627 (Shinkansen Nozomi 273) >> Kyoto 0821
Kyoto 0838 (Limited Express Hashidate 1) >> Miyazu 1033
Miyazu 1047 (bus) >> Ine 1157

– Ine Bay tour
– Funaya tour

Overnight stay: Funaya Inn Maruichi

Dinner: Funaya Biyori

Tips for Day 1
– I had heard there were no convenience stores in Ine. The only (?) liquor store was closed, failed to purchase even a can of beer. Need to be prepared…

Day 2

Ine Post Office 1030 (bus) >> Amanohashidate (Motoise Kono Jinja Shrine) 1105

– I walked through Amanohashidate, it was just a walk along the pine forest beach. It did not look like one of the three most scenic spots in Japan from the ground.
– I ate “Chie-no-mochi” (rice cake of wisdom) in front of the gate of Chion-ji Temple. Looking at the temple while eating the rice cake, I felt becoming a little wiser.
– View of Amanohashidate from Amanohashidate Viewland was certainly one of the three most scenic spots in Japan. Amanohashidate should have seen from higher elevation.

Amanohashidate 1347 (Limited Express Hashidate 4) >> Fukuchiyama 1433
Fukuchiyama 1443 (Limited Express Kounotori 18) >> Shin-Osaka 1628
Shin-Osaka 1651 (Shinkansen Nozomi 416) >> Shin-Yokohama 1902

Tips for Day 2
– Due to the decrease of passengers caused by COVID-19, Hashidate 4 was cancelled between Fukuchiyama and Kyoto.

Memories of Taiwan

In my carrier as an office worker, I have always worked at the end and the beginning of the month, especially from the end of December to the beginning of January due to the accounting closure. However, the situation has changed since last year, and I finally had a completely normal holidays with Japanese calendar.

After returning from last year’s summer vacation, I looked at calendar and noticed that I would have a long holiday, from the end of December to January 5. Even though it was a long vacation time, it was also the time of the year when airline tickets were expensive. Yet, if I laze around home for more than a week, I will get moldy. End of the day, there was no choice but to go somewhere.

I looked around airline tickets and noticed that Taipei was relatively inexpensive. It was about half the price of to Bangkok and Singapore, and about 30% lower than Hong Kong. Naturally, they may be due to differences of flight distances, but it could also be a difference in warmth, as Hawaii and Australia routes were very expensive.

I often use a website named Weather Spark to check weather trends of travel destinations, and it shows Taipei has maximum temperature of about 20 degrees Celsius in beginning of January. Not bad compared to Tokyo in winter, but perhaps a little warmer would be better. If I go to the southern part of Taiwan, maximum temperature in Kaohsiung is around 25 degrees Celsius and its weather is sunny. This is probably one of the best places in terms of climate.

I was not much interested in Kaohsiung, the main city in southern Taiwan, but I have found a nearby seaside town called Fangliao, where I decided to use as a base for my stay in southern Taiwan. Also, there was an old town called Lukang in central Taiwan, so I chose there as our second destination.

Since Taiwan has main long holiday during the Lunar New Year, if I avoid New Year’s Day, I should be able to enjoy Taiwan as usual manner. I planned a four-night schedule, departing on January 1 and returning in the evening of January 5.

I gave up the flight from Taipei Songshan Airport to Tokyo Haneda Airport for the return flight, which coincided with very peak season, and compromised on the flight from Taipei Taoyuan Airport to Tokyo Narita Airport instead. Even after taking the airfare and 4-night hotel stay into account, somehow the cost was almost the same as the airfare alone when I visited Taiwan last spring.

It could be a bit of a hassle to get back to Yokohama from Narita Airport. On the other hand, I can get off Taiwan High Speed Rail (THSR) at Taoyuan Station, airport access is relatively easy in Taiwan. Considering the price difference, it was not a bad compromise. Without much to think, I booked the airline ticket.

Although the weather was statistically good, as usual, actual weather during the stay was the biggest problem. I had planned to see a spectacular view of the Pacific Ocean at Fangliao, but the forecast was rain. The weather on January 2, the day after my arrival, was forecasted to be the worst, but it was supposed to gradually improve. I cancelled hotel in Lukang at the last minute and decided to extend the stay in Fangliao until the last day.

I arrived at Songshan Airport in Taipei before noon on New Year’s Day. I then took the subway to Taipei Station for THSR, then connected to Taiwan Railways to Fangliao. Fangliao is a medium-sized fishing town about an hour from Kaohsiung by express, famous for its mango. I was not confident that I could make it through a rainy day in this town.

When I looked at the Taiwan weather forecast for the next day, it looked like the weather would not be too bad if I went north to Taichung area. The positive forecast called for clear skies, and the negative forecast said cloudy. On the other hand, in the south, including Kaohsiung, all forecasts showed rain.

It seemed foolish going back to near Taichung after having just come south from Taipei. However, I decided to go to Lukang, where was in my original plan, and secured tickets late at night. Since I had never ridden Taiwan Railway express trains before, I decided to take the express trains from Fangliao and back.

To get to Lukang, I needed to take a bus from Changhua, a city located south of Taichung. There is a fan-shaped locomotive depot in Changhua, where is open to the public. Although I arrived 10 minutes early, I was allowed to enter with Taiwanese generosity. Even though it was a weekday, there were a good number of people there, so it was good for me to get there early to take pictures. There happened to be a locomotive changeover using the turntable, so I was there for only about 30 minutes, but enjoyed immensely.

I went back to Changhua Station and tried to take a bus from the bus terminal in front of the station. The bus was too generous. When a bus arrived at departure time, the crew started to take a break. Then the bus finally started moving, it went back to the bus terminal to pick up a regular passenger. From there, the bus drove like a go-kart. When I finally got off the bus at Lukang, I saw a taxi with the Uber logo on it and I decided to take Uber on the way back.

I enjoyed old temples and alleys at Lukang. The weather was not exactly sunny, but there were slight blue skies from time to time. Since I was taking a taxi on my return, I was able to stay a little longer. The Lukang Longshan Temple was amazing, and I decided to revisit in the evening when there were fewer people. From that time on, I had been checking on Uber app, and both private vehicles and taxis seemed to be available within 5-10 minutes or so.

Once I was quite satisfied, I tried calling a car by Uber but it did not match at all. I went out to the street to look for a taxi while waited for Uber to match, but no taxi came either. In despair, I headed for the bus stop. At this point, I was sure I would miss the Taiwan Railways express train on return trip.

When I arrived at the bus stop, the timetable showed the bus would be arriving in 10 minutes. This would allow me to catch the next express train. However, same as before, the bus did not come. It was the third stop on the bus route, but the bus was arrived about 20 minutes late. In the end, I could not catch the 2nd express either. I had to take an ordinary train to THSR Taichung and then take the bullet train. It was expensive but unavoidable.

I was able to get a “missed train proof” at Xin Zuoying Station, where I transferred from THSR to Taiwan Railway, and was able to have a seat on the rapid train back to Fangliao. THSR was very effective, overtaking the missed 2nd express train on its way, and I ended up arriving at Fangliao only 30 minutes late from the original plan.

All’s well that ends well.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Northern Tohoku (Originally posted on 2022-Jun-21)

Times listed are the timetables at the time of the visit.

Day 1

Tokyo Haneda 0750 (Japan Airlines JAL141) >> Aomori 0905
Aomori Airport 0920 (Bus) >> Namioka Town Center 0933
Namioka 1021 (JR Ou Line) >> Kawabe 1029
Kawabe 1038 (JR Gono Line) >> Fukaura 1244

Lunch: Sailing

Fukaura 1441 (JR Gono Line) >> WeSpa Tsubakiyama 1456

Overnight stay: Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen

Tips for Day 1
– The schedule was practically the same as last year’s visit, with the earliest possible arrival to Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen from Tokyo area.
– I bought Aomori apple juice and local snacks at the Aomori City’s facility called “Apinesu” attached to Namioka Station.
– While waiting for connecting train in Fukaura, I ate tuna sashimi, stew with local carotte, and drank sake at a restaurant called “Seiling.” I had visited this place last year and I loved it. It was worth getting off at Fukaura Station to visit this place.

Day 2

WeSpa Tsubakiyama 0935 (JR Gono Line) >> Higashi-noshiro 1037
Higashi-noshiro 1056 (JR Limited Express Tsugaru 2) >> Akita 1145
Akita 1213 (Shinkansen Komachi 224) >> Shin-Hanamaki 1402
JR Shin-Hanamaki Station (shuttle) >> Hotel

Overnight stay: Namari Onsen Fujisan Ryokan Kokoro no Toki Jusangetsu

Tips for Day 2
– You can buy “Torimeshi (chicken rice)” lunchbox of Odate Station even at Akita Station. It was wonderful.
– Due to the suspension of Tohoku Shinkansen caused by the earthquake, I did not have to change trains at Morioka Station. Normally, the Shinkansen from Akita passes Shin-Hanamaki.

Day 3

Hotel (shuttle) >> JR Hanamaki Station
Hanamaki 1027 (JR Tohoku Line) >> Hiraizumi 1108

Rent a bicycle at Hiraizumi Station.

Chuson-ji Temple
Motsu-ji Temple
Takkoku Iwaya Bishamondo

Hiraizumi 1451 (JR Tohoku Line) >> Hanamaki 1532
Hanamaki Airport 1700 (J-Air JAL4954) >> Tokyo Haneda 1805

Tips for Day 3
– For unknown reasons, it is unseasonably hot whenever I visit to Hiraizumi, and regular trains on JR Tohoku Line are crowded.
– The rental bicycle shop in front of Hiraizumi Station had electric bicycles. If I had to use a regular bicycle, I would have given up on visiting Takkoku Iwaya Bishamondo because of the continuous uphill to get there. Still, 6 kilometers one way is a long way to go even on an electric bicycle.
– For return to Tokyo, I took Tokyo Haneda flight operated by J-Air, a subsidiary of Japan Airlines. This was a temporary route due to the Shinkansen shutdown.