Memories of Sukayu (Originally posted on 2022-Mar-10)

This New Year’s holiday season could be five consecutive days off starting from December 31 if I would minimize work during the holiday. It would be too long to just hang around at home.

I believe winter is the best season to visit hot springs in northern part of Japan. Last year, I was able to visit Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen. I was lucky enough to enjoy a spectacular view of the Sea of Japan at sunset. After visiting Koganezaki Furofushi Onsen, Sukayu Onsen in Aomori Prefecture came to the top of my list.

At the end of November, I began to consider travel destinations for the New Year holidays although it might be too late. I thought that Sukayu Onsen would be fully booked, but I checked anyway and found that miraculously there was only one room available for two-night stay starting on January 2.

It seemed I had no choice but to go on the trip. I made a reservation for Shinkansen on the first day tickets went on sale.

However, in mid-December, I found out that I would have to work on January 4. Even though I could work from anywhere, I was not intended to work Excel spreadsheets during the Shinkansen ride. I needed to go back home on January 3.

Theoretically I would be able to go deep into the mountains of Aomori and stay for one night only, should I really go? Even worth, January 3 was the peak time for people to return to their home. Would I be able to come back?

While worrying, I checked JR East website and miraculously found that there were empty seats on one southbound Shinkansen train. As other trains were fully booked, it seemed that an additional train was just added.

I changed my reservations for lodging and the Shinkansen. It was rare that all things to be settled at such a good timing. I decided to go.

While the hotel offered a free shuttle bus from Aomori station, I took a public bus from Shin-Aomori station. The bus ride was wonderful. The bus was an upgraded sightseeing bus, so I could enjoy my time in a spacious comfortable seat. The bus even slowed down at scenic spots.

I had an image of Sukayu Onsen being very crowded because of its famous Sennin-buro (thousand-people bathhouse). Even though the hotel was fully booked, visitors to the Onsen seemed to be relatively low, perhaps because numbers of the guests were limited in the COVID-19 days. Besides, “thousand-people” just probably meant for big.

Late at night, while listening to the sound of snow falling from the roof every now and then, it was really nice to be soaking in the large bath almost no one was there. I wished staying in the bath all night long. There was a Shinto shrine in the bathhouse, and I made first shrine visit of New Year in the nude.

Taking advantage of the miraculous timings, it was a wonderful New Year’s celebration.

COLO’s Traveler Guide: Sukayu

Simple round trip. The time listed is the timetable at the time of visit.

Day 1

Tokyo 0936 (Hayabusa 13) >> Shin-Aomori 1234
Shin-Aomori 1245 (JR bus) >> Sukayu 1405

Overnight stay: Sukayu Onsen

Day 2

Sukayu 0850 (shuttle bus) >> Aomori station 0950
Aomori 1039 (JR) >> Shin-Aomori 1044
Shin-Aomori 1104 (Hayabusa 306) >> Omiya 1348