After returning from a trip to Taiwan last year, I made some research for my next possible visit there. I found that there was a train line in southern Taiwan with a spectacular view of the Pacific Ocean and a sightseeing train was operated using restored old coach cars. English name of the train is “Breezy Blue” but Chinese name “藍皮解憂號 (Relieve Anxious Blue Train)” sounds more comforting. I slightly recalled that I had read an article about this train when it was in a regular service, but I had forgotten about it because of the inaccessibility of Fangliao, the starting station of the train.
I think one of difficulties of traveling to Taiwan is its proximity to Japan although it may sound paradoxically. By taking advantages of red-eye flights, I believe that three-night is enough to go to Southeast Asia, and it is possible going to North America or Europe for four-night travel. As such, Taiwan tends to be out of consideration when I can take a reasonably long vacation. However, this New Year holiday would be the right time because I can take a longer stay in Taiwan due to the airfare.
Assuming that the tourist train would be crowded on weekends, I initially made a reservation on a weekday. If I take a train on a scenic route overlooking the Pacific Ocean, I must do it on a day with good weather. When I checked the forecast before leaving Japan, all forecasts predicted rain in southern Taiwan on the day of the train reserved.
It is difficult to relieve anxious if it is rained. I kept looking the forecast until the day before departure, but it remained the same. On the other hand, all the forecasting companies were predicting clear skies on the day before I would return to Japan. I decided to bet the whole trip on that day. Intentionally ignoring all the troubles not just to myself but all others, I decided to settle things with money – changed hotel reservations and made another train reservation at the very last minute.
Finally, the day came to board the Breezy Blue train. As forecasted, the weather was fine in Fangliao.
When I went to the reception a little early, I was surprised to see a large crowd of people. Apparently, the train was a part of local bus tours. After checking-in for the train and purchasing souvenirs, I waited for the train at Fangliao station. Then a line was formed at the ticket gate. I did not know how crowded the train would be, but I was theoretically sure that only a half of the seats was on the seaside. I decided to get in the line too.
This train runs on the South-link Line of Taiwan Railway, from Fangliao in southwestern Taiwan to Taitung on the east coast and back. Although it is called the South-link Line, it does not link to the southern tip of the Taiwan Island but shortcutting mountain area using tunnels.
Nobel Prize-winning novelist Yasunari Kawabata wrote “the train came out of the long tunnel into the snow country” at the beginning of his “Snow Country”. Unfortunately, I was not a Nobel Prize-winning author besides Taiwan was not a snow country.
The train came out of the long tunnel into the cloudy country. There was a mountain range that run through Taiwan, and the weather seemed to be changed by the mountains. I regretted that I did not take a photo of the ocean on the west coast, where was clear. I arrived in Taitung without to relieve anxious.
The Breezy Blue train runs one round-trip per day. Since the return trip is scheduled around sunset time on west coast, return schedule is rather tight. In Taitung (台東), I only had a time to see the station. It was a bit disappointing since I had lived in Taito (台東) Ward in Tokyo for more than 20 years. I wished to see Taitung a little longer.
It was the time to board the return train. Weather was not so good on the return trip either.
The train made a stop at an intermediate station, where passengers walked around for about an hour to visit an aboriginal village. During this one hour, the weather improved dramatically. It was a miracle.
Upon all passengers re-embarked, the train proceeded to a scenic section of the line where the train slowed down, with a clear sky and a view of the Pacific Ocean up close.
There were fewer passengers on the return trip, and one car in middle of the train was unmanned. The entire train was chartered by a tour company, and the empty car was not locked during the return trip. I was able to enter the car and photograph the blue Pacific Ocean spreading out the windows of the old coach. It was truly a train to relieve anxious.
In the evening, the sun goes down into the mountain range on the east coast, but once passing through the tunnels, the train will be on the west coast. In other words, after watching the sun moving behind the mountains, I was able to enjoy the sun sets into the ocean. They were beautiful sights. The train then returned to Fangliao in a twilight.
I had made last-minute changes, and I felt nervous even on the day of the trip. Finally, I was confident to believe all’s well that ends well. I was fully able to relieve anxious during the New Year holidays. Last year was pretty rough for me, but I felt like there was a hope for 2025.