Memories of Bosnia and Herzegovina

Just after arriving Croatia, I encountered a thunderstorm on Walls of Dubrovnik and paid the entrance fee twice just within a few hours in the afternoon. However, the tragedy on the first day was not only the entrance fee, which costed me over 11,000 yen.

Although I avoided the peak season in August, Dubrovnik was crowded. I had difficulties making restaurant reservations on weekend nights, so I had to make a reservation at a Michelin-listed restaurant on the day of arrival, which was a weekday. While I elegantly enjoyed at the most fashionable and expensive restaurant of the entire trip, I received text message on WhatsApp.

It said that due to last-minute cancellation of other guests, the one-day tour to Bosnia and Herzegovina on the following day would be cancelled. It was already after 21:00.

I had visited Bosnia and Herzegovina on an one-day tour from Dubrovnik during my last visit to this region, the mosques in Bosnia and Herzegovina were so impressive that I was looking forward to revisiting them with recently purchased wide-angle lens. There were two mosques I wished to visit. One of them was in Mostar, a famous tourist town, and could be reached by ordinary buses. However, the other one was located where I could not imagine how I can visit.

I was already feeling gloomy as I paid the entrance fee for Walls of Dubrovnik twice before the dinner, but I felt even gloomier when I heard this. Besides, I ordered the tasting menu and wine pairings, which caused the dinner was rather hectic. I was explained everything on food and wine, but I was distracted. While having the dinner, I tried to find buses but I could not find one. However, I could not give up visiting Bosnia and Herzegovina after coming to Dubrovnik, the border was just ahead.

In the end, at around 21:30, I searched for a tour and found a web site that still accepting reservations for the next day. I was skeptical but I completed the reservation. I immediately received a WhatsApp message. It was the same tour company that had cancelled my initial reservation… Good Grief!

The itinerary of the tour was not much different from the cancelled one, but instead of visiting to a Christian pilgrimage site called Medjugorje, I would be going to see waterfalls. Also, the tour itinerary has shorter stay in Mostar, but I thought it was an unavoidable compromise.

I was picked-up early in the morning at 6:30. Apparently, the waterfalls were more popular than the pilgrimage site for tourists, the tour bus was nearly full. After leaving Croatia, we first visited to Kravica Waterfall. I did not expect much, but it was quite spectacular. The weather was still bad from yesterday, but this might be a positive effect that there were no swimmers. There were buoys set up to segregate the swimming area, which eventually showed up in the pictures, but I could have Adobe Lightroom’s AI to erase them later.

After spending an hour at the waterfall, the tour headed to a village called Pocitelj. The mosque here was wonderful and I wanted to revisit.

Despite it was planned to stay there only for 20 minutes, the bus arrived just before the worship time around noon. When I visit a mosque, I always like to see it from the same perspective as the worshippers. So if possible, I try to sit on the floor and look up inside the mosque. While I sat down on the floor after I took pictures, the imam started the service. I was not asked to leave, I remained to sit in the corner for a while. It was quite secular, with an old man smiling at me and a child walking around. Although it was a short time, it was interesting visit.

Last town of the tour was Mostar. As is common in this kind of tour, guests were taken to a restaurant. I had no high expectations, but a traditional local dish like tomato risotto was delicious. The beef soup I separately ordered was gold-color and also tasted good. It was about a tenth of the price of last night’s fancy restaurant, but twice as tasty.

I finished the meal quickly and went to an old mosque. I remembered the last time I was sitting in this mosque, I talked with the imam who happened to be there, and he said he was grateful to the respects I paid among other tourists roundly talked each other.

The visit at this time was during a heavy shower. The mosque was completely deserted despite this was one of the country’s most popular tourist places. Including the time for taking pictures, I was able to quietly observe the mosque for about 30 minutes. Moreover, I was able to climb the minaret, a spire attached to the mosque, for an extra fee. It is probably rare for a mosque to show this much to non-Moslems.

When I heard of tour cancellation the night before, I had a really sinking feeling. In the end, I was able to recover and fully enjoy the short visit to Bosnia and Herzegovina.

It is important not to give up on anything. I usually do not reach such conclusion. Nevertheless, I can have such a positive attitude while traveling.