Last year, I went to Sukayu Onsen during the New Year holidays, which was an unusual case for me. Basically, I believe it is better to stay at home during crowded New Year’s holidays and go on a trip after the second week of January.
When I visited Goshougake Onsen in Akita Prefecture two years ago, I learned that Hachimantai Visitor Center was offering snow trekking tours. There is a mud volcano surrounding Goshougake Onsen, which can be viewed from the trails during the summer months. It would be wonderful to see it in winter, as the scenery can be quite fascinating. Since I tend to act quick on my trip plans, I had thought to go back one year later in winter, but I had to give it up due to the construction work at Goshougake Onsen.
I maintained my forward-looking attitude for another year and started to make inquiries and reservations last October. I heard that there were a 2-hour trekking tour for beginners and a 3-hour trekking tour to fully enjoy the spectacular view. I have chosen the 3-hour course even though I had never worn snowshoes. I was able to rent everything from snowshoes to clothing, so it seemed to be a fairly easy way to have fun.
I had decided and booked on dates in mid-January, more than 3 months prior to the visit. I might have been too forward-looking, because I had been waiting for the visit almost two years. A phrase “too much of good thing can be bad” came to mind. I wondered if I would be alright.
On the way there, I flew from Tokyo Haneda to Odate-Noshiro Airport and travelled further from Odate to Goshougake Onsen. On the way back, I took the Akita Nairiku Railway from Takanosu, where was near Odate, to Kakunodate and returned to Tokyo on the Akita Shinkansen.
When main purpose of the trip is photography, difficulties are always the weather. Normally, I would like to spend longer time in one site, rather than visiting multiple sites in one trip. This way, I can have several opportunities to take photographs, higher chance to have nice weather.
Unfortunately, when I use the transportation service of Goshougake Onsen, I am not able to participate trekking on the day of arrival nor departure. I would have to stay two nights and join the trekking only once on the middle day.
I could not control the weather. Despite I could not prepare for the worst, I only hoped for the best. This methodology has never worked in my life.
It turned out, the afternoon of the day before the trekking was fine, and the morning of the day after the trekking was fine. Yet, it snowed on the day of the trekking, which was the most important day of three. I should be satisfied with the winter scenery even if cloudy, but snowflakes can be annoying because they would show up in the photos.
On the day of trekking tour, I was guided by two locals supposedly as a safety measure. I am a middle-aged man with an unusually stiff body, so I was relieved and grateful. We did some warm-up exercises and headed out. The fresh snow felt good.
It was my first time for snowshoe trekking, but the crampons worked well and it was easy to get used to. Climbing hills and sliding on the slopes, they were extremely fun. The view was even more spectacular than I imagined. It was wonderful to walk on a different route than the trails in summer.
As for the photos, the visibility was poor due to the snow. It is the same in life, being positive forward-looking attitude does not always bring positive results.
I am persistent to travel, so I will keep forward-looking attitude and try again next year.
COLO’s Traveler Guide: Goshougake Onsen
The times and other information are based on the timetable at the time of the visit.
Day 1
Tokyo Haneda 0855 (All Nippon Airways ANA719) >> Odate-Noshiro 1005
Odate Noshiro Airport (airport bus) 1020 >> Nagakura-cho 1124
Lunch: Akita Hinaiya
Odate Station 1255 (Express Bus Michinoku) >> Kazuno Hanawa 1353
Kazuno Hanawa 1435 (shuttle bus) >> Goshougake Onsen 1520
Overnight stay: Goshougake Onsen
Tips for Day 1
– Lunch at Akita Hinaiya, with local Hinai chicken in oyako-don (chicken and egg bowl).
– Due to the heavy rainfall last year, the JR Hanawa Line was closed from Odate to Kazuno Hanawa. I took an express bus for this section.
Day 3
Goshougake Onsen 0930 (shuttle bus) >> Kazuno Hanawa 1020
Kazuno Hanawa 1032 (local bus) >> Odate Station 1203
Lunch: Hanazen
Odate 1357 (Tsugaru 4) >> Takanosu 1414
Takanosu 1438 (Akita Nairiku Railway Express Train) >> Kakunodate 1635
– Kakunodate Samurai District at night
Kakunodate 1901 (Komachi 46) >> Omiya 2139
Omuya >> Yokohama
Tips for Day 3
– On the way back from Kazuno Hanawa to Odate, I took a local bus. It was a long but interesting ride through the villages.
– I love the lunchbox called “Torimeshi (Chicken Rice)” sold at Odate Station (and other stations in Tohoku area), and the lunchbox shop has a restaurant in front of Odate Station. Usually the lunchbox is sold in normal temperature, but I was impressed by the freshly made warm chicken rice.
– In order to have river views, I wanted to make sure to have a seat on the right side of Akita Nairiku Line train from Takanosu, so I took JR limited express from Odate to Takanosu. I had a cup (cups, actually) of sake while looking at the snowy scenery of Ani River. It’s hard to resist.